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I have read that to fire polish.... you should take your kiln to 1350 degrees. My question is how slow to get it there, how long to leave it here, and then what.... go directly to anneal? Could someone perhaps provide a fire polish schedule?
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it'll be a little different for each kiln
it depends upon the thickness of your piece. the thicker, the slower. once at the top temp, you have to look at it to see how much it's rounded off. after doing it a few times, you'll have experience with your kiln to know how long to leave it at the top temp. you then crash (in my controller, it's 9999 to 960) to do an immediate anneal. the parameters of the anneal again depends upon the thickness of the piece and type of glass.
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Fire polishing goes to the same temperature as tack fusing. I fire at 300F/hr to 1325F. I wait for the ground edges to start looking watery. When the grinder marks are gone (~20minutes) then I advance the controller to the annealing segment. The cooling rate I program in to get to the annealing soak is as fast as the kiln will cool on its own. I do not vent the kiln.
The objective is to watch the ground edges at about 1325F and wait for them to round off a bit and get the watery finish. I try to tack fuse/fire polish at the lowest temperature possible. If you go to 1350F you might start to get bleeding of the tack fused pieces into the base glass.
Hope this helps.
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Ross wrote:I have read that to fire polish.... you should take your kiln to 1350 degrees. My question is how slow to get it there, how long to leave it here, and then what.... go directly to anneal? Could someone perhaps provide a fire polish schedule?
There is a lot of technology applicabble here
Some in combination
2 basic methods
Slow fire n fast fire
4 fast fire
Try a search in archives 4
Baffle n Go
Zap n Blastem
Brian and Jenny Blanthorn
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