WarmGlass.com

Thanks Peter and Brad. Sounds like additional time in the vitrigraph bubble soak stage should solve the problem.

I'm certain there is air in the stringer. I guess was hoping that a longer adjusted bubble soak in the full fuse might move the air out completely, but it sounds like that's not the solution. To create the vitrigraph, I use the Olympic HOTSIE P6. I set the dial to 4 until it reaches 500 degrees. The...

Hi Brad, thanks for your help on this. I've added three photos. Photo A (green), done about a year ago, shows what happens on my initial full fuse firing of vitrigraph to a sheet of glass. This kept occurring, so I stopped at that time trying to make vitrigraph work. But, I like what’s possible with...

I'm having bubble and crater issues with vitrigraph. I am using vitrigraph to create abstract designs, and in the initial full fuse of the vitrigraph to the glass sheet I am ending up with small bubble/craters in some places - usually at a place where the vitrigraph stringer is fatter than the strin...

Thanks Cynthia, I'll give the Burnt Scarlet Striker a try.
btw: Very cool piece!

Thanks for the suggestion Jim. I'm not sure how to oxidize the atmosphere in a kiln. But it sounds like this would not be a safe approach anyway. I did go ahead and order the 0024 Tomato Red — it looks like using this glass will work. After my first attempt using transparent red did not work out so ...

Great. Thanks Brad.

I'm new to the Warm Glass forum, so first, thanks for including me. I am doing high fire temparature melts and discovering that transparent red does not stay red once it reaches high temps of 1700 degrees. The red turns a muddy liver brown, kinda yucky looking. So my question is, what, if any, COE90...