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Maybe so, but Chad gives me a lift.

Thanks for all the very helpful information. I understand the process much better now.

Great! Thanks.

Can you answer a couple of basic questions for me about chads? All I know about them is you use them to avoid or minimize bubbles between layers of glass when fusing. How big/small should they be? And you place them at corners and maybe sides of the pieces you are fusing, but what happens to the cha...

Thanks, Marty. That's helpful information. I still don't have quite all the water out of the basement (it's groundwater that rises up through the floor) so haven't gotten a good look at the interior of the kiln yet. I can feel the floor bricks from the bottom, though, and they are damp. Thanks again.

Here in Columbia SC, where we've had major flooding lately, my basement flooded up to the level of the floor of my kiln. Don't think the water reached any elements and maybe not the electrical control box. If the only damage is to the brick floor of the kiln, can I just wait for the brick to dry -or...

Thanks for all the advice. It's give me plenty to think about. An outbuilding doesn't sound like the best alternative, but I'm stumped for other options. At least, if I do it, I have some factors to keep in mind. Thanks again. P

Thanks so much. I like the idea of a dehumidifier.

I'm thinking of building a small outbuilding for my kiln and a few supplies. (My knees object more and more to dealing with the stairs to the basement where my kiln is currently located. ) I live in a humid environment. Would such a location be bad for the kiln? Rust on metal parts and maybe the ele...

The work and presentation is beautiful! Do you mind if I ask how you hang the wall pieces? They seem to be offset from the wall a bit. I'm looking for a nice, economical way to hang transparent glass panels for display. Thanks.

You're right, they do look like score marks, but I didn't score the glass. In fact, the marks run perpendicular to the one score I made. I went back and looked at the glass sheet that I cut this piece off of and see no sign of score marks on it either. Weird!

Here is an image of a section of the lines. You may have to enlarge it to see them near the brightest part of the reflections. On second look, they show up pretty well.

Just a quick clarification of my 1st post, which may have been confusing ... The mold is 1" deep, and the glass I'm slumping is 6mm thick. Sorry if that wasn't clear.

The firing schedule was 300dph to 1100, hold 15; 100-1150-60; afap-900-45; 150-750-0; afap-100-0. The lines are very fine and parallel to each other-some are clustered about midway within the piece and some more toward one end. They are so fine that I doubt if I can photo them but I will try. The li...

My first slumping in a new mold produced a bowl with striations or fine scratches across its width. It's a rectangle about 11x5x1, and I held the slump for an hour. Too long? What could have caused these marks? It's 6mm of BE - also embedded 4 stringers in a rectangular pattern in the fusing phase. ...

Sounds like a fun and simple way to go! Thanks.

Do you have to use a rigidizer with a 1/2 in. blanket?

I have some 1/4 in. Amaco fiber shelf liner that I would like to make a mold with. I'd like to stack 2 layers, making a 1/2 in. deep slump mold. Any reason this won't work? Do I need to burn out this material first? Do I need to coat the top with kiln wash? Should I vent the kiln slightly when slump...

Thanks so much for your advice. My take-away from all this is that to get a matte finish (without a sandblaster) the alternatives are etching cream or sanding ( and maybe using the face-down side of fused glass as the top side). I guess I'll do some practicing with etching and sanding. Thanks again.

How can I get a matte finish on 6mm of fused BE glass? I do not have access to a sandblaster, and after reading a number of posts here as well as Brad's book, I'm afraid I'm still confused. Two questions: how to get a matte finish when that's what I plan to do from the start? And why didn't this wor...