WarmGlass.com

OK this will involve your imagination. Imagine a series of cast rings. I want to pre cast the rings, polish etc. Then put these rings inside a vessel form. So you have a solid cast vase with rings inside. The trick is that I want the rings to be a different color from the vase. They don't actually ...

I have a silicone mold I'm using to make wax copies for use in the lost wax process. When I pour wax into the silicone mold, I end up (sometimes more, sometimes less) with lots of very small air bubbles that cling to the surface of the silicone mold...and in tight areas will even create a 'void'. D...

I have used float a bit to cast with, mostly for students doing "open face" castings. It can work ok but I suggest the following: - Avoid using float form different sources, even one shop. If the glass comes from different manufactures it can be differnt enough to cause a problem. - Float...

Jerry Flanary: ... the melting wax is just going to seep into the plaster (my guess). You need the water in the plaster to resist the molten wax (my opinion). That is my experience, too. I tried once to remove the residue vax by burning acetone in the mold. The result was a beautiful cast, filled w...

Bert Weiss wrote:Float is a piss poor casting glass.

Well there's a resounding DON'T if I ever heard one !!

Krishnan

Hello All, I've been casting for about 3 years now - mostly with BullsEye frit/cullet/broken up sheet fragments. I've also used Gaffer occassionally - mostly avoid it because of Lead content (paranoia ??). I've -THOUGHT- about using window glass for casting. I have slumped with it and it is a MUCH h...

I just casted a head shape piece that is approx. 12" tall 9" wide and 3.25" thick. The piece was casted inverted with the neck area to the top. I filled the cavity with Bullseye glass(chunks and frit). Fired to 1500 degrees. Glass in neck area melted but when I opened the mold the re...

When you refer to fiberglass as a strenghthener, are you talking about pink fiberglass insulation, or something else, and if so, where is it obtained? Cheers, Suzan Well, I've used something slightly diff from what John uses. I use the fibre glass "mat"or "mesh cloth" type of th...

Hello All, I have a rather large mould - about 1 cubic foot with a reasonably large wax model in it - the wax model has lots of detail in it. I'm looking for non-traditional ways to de wax the mould. I read a fair bit on microwave oven techniques to dewax a mould. All requiare a rather WET plaster m...

Hello John, Thanks for your reply. I've heard of the Japanese material - but I dismissed it as "marketing blab" but looks like there some truth to it. No ide about the TEOS - if you get me more info I can search since I'm pretty much in Silicon Valley (==> SillyValley). Well, I plan to try...

I've considered using colloidal silica as a binder, but plaster/silica flour is almost free in cost comparison. I'm basically a cheapskate and am unwilling to use my colloidal on what I still consider to be an unproven technique (it has worked a dozen times with only 1 failure, but this could be du...

Hello All, I'm trying to "re-arrange/organize" my workshop/basement in my 2 weeks of do-nothing-get-paid vacation. One of the trickiest things is to de-wax the mould WITHOUT upsetting my gf OR the neighbours (yes I know it's impossible ...). Anyway, the de-waxer/steamer I use is a coffee c...

:!: :!: :!: WOW!! Truly wonderful work!! WOW!! I can see someone actually parting with $$money$$ to buy this (if you ever dare to sell it). Some of the pieces of PDV I've seen locally (in SF) are more like "gets an 'A' for effort, but an 'F-' for quality". This piece gets 'A's all around. ...

Hello All, I've been kiln casting for about 3 years and have collected a fair number of pieces that need to "cold worked" before I can claim them to be DONE! All I need is to remove a few flashing (too close to the main body to snap-off), and polish them lightly. I am not looking for super...