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In the first firing, some of the glass will remain in the pot. Weigh your glass and the pot before you fire, and then weigh your rondel afterwards. That should give you a good idea of how much glass will produce X size rondel when you need one that is a bit more exacting. Not high tec science, but i...

A simple rondel can easily be created as a pot drop. Search craft stores for smaller clay pots, and increase the hole in the bottom by simply reaming the existing hole out with closed scissors pointed up into the pot and twisting the scissors back and forth until you get a hole size that is acceptab...

If you have access to a tile saw, it's fairly easy to cut the bottom of the bottle off. Clean it extremely well with a brass brush and Dawn on the cut edge, use your Borax spray and fire. If you're doing a lot of these, look into purchasing a Solo sprayer ( pump) to apply a fine mist. They are about...

I have seem some bottles that were cut with a tile saw at the shoulders, in line with the n/s axis of the bottle. You can cut as little or as much as you want. I would mark off the area first with a paint pen. A diamond bit of an inch or more cut under water would also work. Just remember that bottl...

Sawing is much easier before the slump, and when I get a nice, flat edge, I do not do any coldworking.

Effetre 104 is a difficult glass to fuse. For me, it devitrifies horribly. The commercially made murinni are not always compatible, and I can see the halos surrounding your murinni in the pictures. Clear signs of incompatibility. Unfortunately, you cannot fix nor save these. I am working on a projec...

I use my glass tile saw to get a nice straight edge. Easy!

Anyone else having problems with the newer COE's of Wissmach fusible? I fired 2 layers 96, full fuse, then slumped them and the white on top of the black devited horribly at 1175. Clean going in, mold sprayed with MR97, nothing unusual. Haven't seen devit that bad at that temp ever!

Get a plastic Cool Whip container. Put the frit balls in there and cover them with white vinegar. Put the container somewhere you will be often...kitchen, living room table, etc. every time you go by the container, shake, shake, shake it. Do this for a couple of days and they will be immaculate. Rea...

Thanks, Cynthia. I'll put Thine Fire in the next one, and add feet to this one. We were in Japan eons ago, and I almost got run over trying to cross the street in their crazy traffic to get to a glass seller of marbles!

Well, how do I fix it so that it sits level?

I,m getting 9 ladie,s dancing with these molds. There doesn't seem to be a flat spot in them. Any suggestions?

OK!

Thanks, Warren, I posted it on their site and will contact Amy Ferber when she returns to portland.

Test piece came out from second firing (in a different kiln) just the same as first, dark, dark chocolate brown over the turquoise opal. Stumped.

Sheet. Definitely opaline striker. The only thing I can think of is maybe my kiln temp is off from the 1490 suggested top temp. I am refining one piece as a test tonight.

Tried to put opaline striker over BE turquoise and it has turned brown. Have not read anything that suggested it was reactive........Any suggestions?

Believe it or not, we have found that cutting Baroque on the "wrong" side works much better for us! In this case, the wrong side is the bumpy, wobbly one. Go steady and a little slower when scoring, so that you don't skip along the bumps. Then use breakers from both ends to the middle.