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The bung holes/cooling port inserts/sleeves: I had a local potter throw long cylinder shapes with a 1 1/2 inch flange/lip at the top and open at the bottom which tapers gently narrowing at the bottom! (So the bung/plug won't fall thru. ) These can be what ever dia. you desire. The length needs to be...

Aloha, seems part of the pilikia for cooling quicker could be in the table... I don't know what the Mizu is but the IFB bricks being denser will still hold alot more heat than Kaowool on the base/table. A lot of sand will add more mass = longer cooling time I used about 6in thick Kaowool for table/b...

I use a paint roller with tray. Its quick, handy for big kiln shelves and leaves a nice finish!

I don't know about checking for "brands" for composition. Good ole thick/heavy shelves would tend to be pretty flat. As for fumes.... I've never had a problem with it. BUT you really need to make sure that the shelves are clean with absolutley no glaze stuck on them. It's nearly impossible...

Artline 200 are a finer line and burn clean too! Except if you mark on sandblasted or ground edges as they dont burn off clean all the time!

Hi there... Have you tried colliodial silica aka rigidizer? I have only used it on fibreblanket/Kaowoo. I'd love to hear your results with using the fibreglass!
Happy experimenting, Victoria

Hi there, The kiln we built (4 x 8 foot firing surface) has the lid going up and down with the base rolling under on wheels that are a bit larger than the ones you can see on the 'Jack Bowman' photos. The rubber composition of the wheels acts as a shock absorber so that the intricate glass patterns ...

A simple way to arrive at a 'guestimate' firing cost is to record your electrical meter reading at the start and finish of firing. Subtract the meter reading start from the finish to give you the kilowatts used. Check your electric bill for the cost per kilowatt and wah la. Its close to the cost of ...

If you just want a black or white opaque glue you can use 'Optima. Its a tile adhesive sold here in Australia. You butter the back of each tile as well as the mounting surface. Let set for 5 minutes before laying the tiles. I used the white to put up a 3 x 2 foot, 12mm thick panel on a very uneven c...

Yep, patience is a good thing with tall drop out creations. The 'devit' you mentioned could be the result of the glass sort of picking up a very slight "texture" as the glass flows through the hole of the mold. Especially if the mold is fibre or the edge the glass flows through is not abso...

Two questions: 1. Is a light sandblasting on the underside of the middle layer the way to go here to remove the prints? 2. Will the sandblasted surface leave any unexpected effects when the panels are stacked and brought to a full fuse? Common sense tells me no, but... Q1: If it removes kilnwash it ...

A year or so ago I made a febble attempt at fusing sapphires with a cracking result. I used green ones and they struck to a murcky hazel colour. I only did this in my old enamel kiln with no temp control... quick and nasty. Perhaps a slow and low temp soak would produce a better outcome. And don't u...

An inexpensive setup we use for a seasonal-monthly outdoor night markets/show.... MAy through Dec. Last year we used a small car battery to run 2 x 40 watt 12 volt lights to illuminate ceiling type lamps shades. We used a second car battery to run 3 x 25 watt dichroic lights. The lights were attacte...

It would be good to gently remove the glass that is stuck to the element especially if you are using fusing temperatures. Grozing pliers will help to remove the glass. Make sure that all the little bits of glass and element residue are vacuumed up. If the element is broken or breaks you can gently s...

You might want to consider applying any etched or sandblasted decoration to the inside surface of your glass cabinet so that grease and grubby little finger prints won't be a hassle to clean!