WarmGlass.com

just don't take credit for them

Heck no. Nuthin' new under the sun.

ellen
http://www.emstudioglass.com

Sometimes, I will put down a thin layer of clear against the mold surface and then apply my colors since the clear doesn't seem to be affected by those little buggers. But that's not always possible depending on how I plan to manipulate the glass frits.

ellen

I use jewelers Craytex polishing bullets that are available at a jeweler's supply. They are rubber impregnated with silicon carbide and come in coarse, medium, fine, extra fine, and pumice. I use mainly the medium and fine grades with an off hand engraver (I have a Foredom) but I started out with ju...

If it's on the surface that was embedded in the mold (the 'front'), it's not devit. We get it a lot. It's a chemical reaction between the glass and the silica. They are trying to become one. Some colors are more suceptible than others. Some colors that get it clean up very easy, some are impossible ...

It looks to me like they are meant for a dremel or off-hand engraver. That's what I use, but I don't use the discs. Mostly I use jeweler's polishing bullets so I can get into the nooks and crannies of the sculpted surfaces.

ellen

I used contact shelf pasper exclusively for 27 years for surface work and carving. They changed the formula last year. I would not recommend it even for surface work. The edges wrinkle and fray terribly now and the nice clean sharp edges I used to get are now compromised, especially if you want to g...

I use diamond bits a lot although not drill bits. Unless you have a 'sintered' bit, the diamond dust is glued onto the base metal. If you are losing the diamond, it is as Tony says, technique related. Slow down. Diamond bits work better at slow speeds and last longer. When they get too hot the glue ...