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A possible outcome is that the glass wll no longer be heat-resistant. If you are depending on its heat-resistant properties, reheating and annealing without a proper (and perhaps proprietary) schedule may make the glass behave like "normal" glass.

Tony

Hi Bonnie!

What Don said.

Tony

Just curious, as I'm not planning to do it, but how does one get the used grit from the blasting cabinet back into the pressure pot? With the siphon system it just stays in the reservoir and recycles? Started to look it up on-line but got side-tracked at a uTube video on making a pressure pot out o...

Yes. They're readily available. I've purchased them from Glastar in the past. http://www.glastar.com/catalog/sandblasting/nozzles.cfm Most recently, I bought a cerbide fatboy from Butch Young. It's expensive but I expect to have it for awhile. http://www.thesandwitch.com/supplies.html#borride_nozzle...

I've got a siphon and am considering buying a pressure pot. Which pressure pots are ya'll using? Any special issues? Greg, The most common pressure pot among glass artists is the 100B-S sold by Glastar. It costs less than $1,000 and is pretty much plug and play out of the box. http://www.glastar.co...

OK, I'm ready to buy! How about this one? http://www.sears.com/craftsman-professional-27-gallon-vertical-portable-air-compressor/p-00916474000P?sid=IDx01192011x000001&kpid=00916474000&kispla=00916474000P Great choice. Belt drive, oiled compressor... And 7.2 CFM at 40 psi. I usually run my p...

Rick, You're right on the money. With a pressure pot, you can get away with a much smaller compressor and never outgrow it. What you'll want is a 20 or 30 gallon tank so the compressor doesn't run constantly. Perhaps a Craftsman like this. http://www.craftsman.com/craftsman-33-gallon-vertical-air-co...

Technically, these aren't compression fittings. They're called "push-to-connect" fittings and have an o-ring and some sort of retaining feature that holds the tubing aggressively in-place.

Let us know if you continue to have problems with the pressure pot.

Tony

The temps are nice, even centigrade numbers converted to Fahrenheit, which become really strange numbers.

Tony

To give credit where credit is due, I learned almost everything I know about micas from Avery Anderson.

Tony

The time and temperature are critical as over firing results in Micas that are less intense. Try some test runs, but I use 1405 for 15 minutes.

Tony

No. Some of the "micas" are not colorfast. Look at Thompson Enamel Carefree Lusters. A number of us have been quite successful using them over the years. https://thompsonenamel.com/advanced_search_result.php?keywords=luster+jar&osCsid=tb49ildc1jltc75krqpnriqbn2&x=0&y=0 Also, do...

It's probably as good as it was in the 70's if moisture hasn't turned it into a rock. That said, it was probably for ceramic or clay firing and I suspect the formula for glass firing might be a bit different. You'll have to try it and see.

Tony

Or trim it so you have a ring, fuse it to a double-layer of white or off-white, and put it back into the same mold for a unique two-toned piece.

Never give up!

Tony

Be very careful using a heat gun on fused glass... in fact, I would say never use a heat gun on fused glass. It's a perfect tool to thermally shock the glass and break it.

Just to dispel a couple of myths: there is no free silica in silicon carbide, so there is no greater danger using silicon carbide than aluminum oxide for sandblasting; while some people have seen a haze in fused pieces when sandblasting with silicon carbide, I have never seen this in the hundreds of...

You might want to read this thread.
http://www.warmglass.com/phpBB/viewtopi ... or#p350368

Tony

Brad,

Will you pull these photos and the PDF off of the archive site and store them locally? It's rare that we get a chance to reach back and revisit history.

Tony

Dalle de Verre glass is available from Kokomo in 8 x 12 x 1" in colors and clear

http://www.kog.com/more-glass/dalles.html

Tony