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Brock wrote:WBS. Brock

Why? Lisa

If you could afford only one of these, would you pick a full size wet belt sander or a 12" diamond lap wheel for seaming edges?

Thanks, Lisa

I would try going slower up to your final slump temp too. You have got alot more in there to heat up evenly. Maybe 200dph or even 150dph to 1200, then hold and you can peek to see when they are down.

Lisa

I use a little Badger from Michael's that uses canned air as a propellant. I find it odd that your SS is thick though. I have a few bottles and all of them are pretty liquidy.....

I don't know about the sharpie thing.......I can't imagine that working.

But, if you get a sheet of dichro on black glass, you can use resist to introduce a pattern then sandblast the dichro off, leaving you with the base black glass as the design surrounded by the dichro.

Lisa

PVA glue is just white glue, like Elmer's.

Lisa

Rob Morey wrote:Randy,
Great post. Thank you very much. What do you use to lubricate the bar slide? Mine is very sticky.

Rob

I'm not Randy, but I had the same problem and called MK. They recommended WD-40 and mine slides great now.

Lisa

If the bubble is between the glass and the shelf, check the level of your shelf with a straight edge. An uneven shelf is the usual culprit in these cases. If it isn't level, you can try to use fiber paper between the glass and shelf to give the air an escape route, flip the shlef ove and see if the ...

I haven't seen a mullite shelf larger than 21", probably because it would be so dang heavy. I use a Unifrax HD duraboard that is 1 and 1/2". I have been using the current one for about 8 months now. They do tend to warp slightly and the surface has degraded a bit, but mine is not rigidized...

You might try going slower from 960 to 700. I would probably go no faster than 100 dph with no holds. it is my understanding that what you want for proper annealing is a slow and steady descent through the annealing range (960-700). The hold at 960 is just to make sure that the temp of the glass is ...

Hey barbara. Yeah, mine are only used on the surface. I would sure try the MK100 wonder saw if you need no saw marks and divots though. It is a huge difference in the quality of the slices. Lisa 95% of the quality of the cut is the blade, not the saw. I agree with you absolutely. I should have been...

Hi Lisa... do you use them exclusively on the surface of your gorgeous work? See, I'm using some of mine in multiple layers with clear over many of them. Thanks, BB Hey barbara. Yeah, mine are only used on the surface. I would sure try the MK100 wonder saw if you need no saw marks and divots though...

I now understand that my problem with the slices isn't about cleaning. Tho slices must be scrubbed first, the roughness left by the tile saw permits trapping of little air bubble bits. BB I don't clean mine very well at all, just a rinse with water from my hose. I get around the scummy stuff by san...

I have a Mac, so don't have all these virus problems. But I am curious about how they get around. Don't you have to open an attachment for the virus to infiltrate your system? Or does just opening the email get you in trouble?

Lisa

Try http://www.crloo.com.

Lisa

I have a big Evenheat as well and cut those 3 shelves up for dams. I use a Unifrax HD 1 and 1/2" duraboard as a shelf instead, sitting right on the kiln floor......works just fine.

Lisa

I had made a pattern bar quite a while ago and I couldn't decide how to use the slices. :-k A visit to Lisa's site inspired this. http://f1.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/74dodge@sbcglobal.net/vwp?.dir=/Pattern+Bar+Plate&.dnm=BarPlate.jpg&.view=t Thanks Lisa. =D> Randy Well, you're welcome.....glad...

Hi gale- I use http://www.ezslides.com/digitalcamera.htm and have been pleased with the results. I just heard back that I got into a show with recent slides made from digital images. Didn't get to see these particular ones projected, but have seen some earlier ones and thought they were fairly true ...

It is a good saw, cuts pattern bars just fine. My slabs are usually about 1" thick. But I am not so sure about 2" deep pieces. I don't have my manual on hand, but i think that the depth of cut is somewhere around 1 and 3/4" max. Try to find an MK 100 if you want to be able to cut thic...

Wow, Jackie! What a gorgeous grouping. Wish I could see them in person to see all of the individual textures and finishes, I love the look of the wheel carving.

Is the black around each square a frame or glass?

Lisa