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I fused a piece of 1/8" glass 11"x11" with frit on top to 1560 hold 10. A previous post mentioned to hold with a 50 degree ramp between 1150 and 1250 which I did. But I had a large bubble in the center of the piece. So I put a circle of glass in the center, and tried another piece. Th...

After slumping a large piece of glass - 23"x23", I did not like the configuration, so put it back into the kiln for a re-slump. The results were better, but I found a small chip near the top edge where the floral former held the glass to rest upon. Is re-slumping a problem with this sort o...

I do not like to use fibre paper, and put a 10x10 1/8" piece with fruit onto the kiln washed shelf. I ran a program that was for fusing from Youghegheny, and the glass ended up with a big bubble in the almost center. I've heard of putting small chips of glass in the four corners, to ease the gl...

IMG_2890.jpg IMG_2890.jpg I also had a ceramic stand that the stainless steel former sat on that got covered with glass. It let the glass slide onto the former, and make the ends of the vase turn a bit. It was 5.5" wide at the base, and was like a gentle slope at the end of the former. Do you ...

I had a meltdown in the kiln, and have melted glass embedded on a stainless steel former. I tried to get it off by putting in a kiln to 900 degrees, then dropping it into water - a lot of the glass came off, but some remains. I do not want to sandblast it in my booth, as my grit is very fine and I d...

I have a beautiful piece of dichroic irregularly shaped 1/8" 96 glass about 14"x8" that I want to fuse with a backing. The first piece will be 1/8", and the other piece 1/4" ( or possibly one 1/4" and another 1/8" piece - I'd like to make the final product thick, a...

I have been experimenting with different floral formers, and the last ramp I tried, to 1355, was 5 degrees cooler than the one I usually use. My sheets of glass are 12" square. The vases were not quite as folded as I'd like. If I re-slump, would the first firing affect the temp of the second fi...

To be certain, I want to fuse the colors into1/8" DS glass. Next step would be to slump it over a former.
At this time I'm still at the fusing stage, and want to get the colors into the ds sheet w/o big bubbles

The other info will certainly be helpful if I get a good sheet to slump

Yes, its 1/8" - the reason is I'd like to slump the finished sheet into a vase. I guess tack fusing it is the only option, rather than going to full fuse....or having to use a 1/4" piece.

I recently tried to fuse onto a sheet of 1/8" with Youghegheny frits and powders. The sheet was about 8" x 16", but it ended up with several large bubbles in it,even though I thought I had good hold times, and not too fast of a ramp ( merely putting grit onto the glass - not fusing ot...

I'm looking for a kiln board that I can fuse onto that hopefully does not need fibre paper, which I find uncomfortable to be around. I've got a white 2" thick board that seems to have rigidizer on it, but a section of it got pulled away from a previous casting. I also have a vermiculite board a...

I recently fused a couple of 12"x12" 96 pieces of clear, with colors on top. There may be a problem with my thermocouple, which I'm trying to figure out with the programming manufacturer by doing a few tests, but in the meantime, the base sheet created four large blow-out holes in one shee...

I have made a few lamps from floral formers, with artistically placed pieces of glass on a base layer of clear. I have tried drilling a starter hole on a drill press after the former was made, which is relatively successful. But my drill bit is 3/4", and the hole needed for an electrical source...

I have been contacted by an architect to look into creating a lobby piece for his client that would replicate the look of one of the small etched glass paperweights that are laser etched, but to become pretty large - about 24"x24". I was thinking of doing several different plates of glass,...

I want to slump a piece of 14"x7" 3/8" glass into a curved mold, and create a flat triangular spot near the top, so I can glue another piece to it. I tried a test, and used a fibre board for the flat spot. Went to 1245 F, and it was close to what I'd want to achieve. But the fibre boa...

I found a plaster mold that I had made years ago, and ran a piece of glass in it this weekend. There is a lot of veiny type of detail to it, and the results were great. I kiln washed the mold first, then ran a piece of 96 1/4" in it at 350-1385- 1.00, then 9999 to 960 -1.0, then 100-900-1.0. Th...

Thanks for that - I also looked up the kiln specs, and it fires to 1700, so couldn't have gone much higher than that...

I recently forgot to put the thermocouple into the chamber after loading my small kiln. It was in the wall of the kiln, so registered temp., but only in the hole in the wall. Went to 1375 for 45 min. The results were at first surprising, and then I decided I liked what happened. Any idea what temp i...

I've now got 5 pieces of 1/4" float in varying stages of waving. I used 400-1350 for the schedule. At that temp, on the stainless mold that I have pre-waved, with kiln wash, I got some impression from the low spots on the stainless. At 1320, the impression was less. Now I plan to go to 1200, fo...

Thanks - I've got some wet-pack that I could use - probably 1/2". Any idea what a good firing schedule you'd suggest for a 9"x7" piece of 1/4" spectrum fused to clear?

Thanks