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The sphere shaped bits would be quicker. I use really cheap ones all the time. The grit does wear off..... I would guess maybe 15 to 20 holes per bit before they become pretty smooth. Where do you get the cheap spheres? Or a brand? might be bit quality. i use twofers from aanraku. you might want to...

antifreeze is a good idea! I was thinking about trying to add something like WD40 to keep the cores from getting stuck... I am poking out the plug after EVERY HOLE and I'm still sitting under 10 holes per bit. I am drilling through final fused pieces, usually 2 layers pre-fuse.

I have tried the tips on this forum for drilling with hollow core bits. I'm making ornaments and have about 150 6mm holes to go. It took 10 bits to get through the first 75, and that was because I took the bit out after each hole and knocked out the plug. So, as I went to order another 20 bits I saw...

How high are you firing? I have found that if the glass is moving on the paper (think pot melt) it will get scummy as it moves. If the base layer is stable I have never had a problem with thinfire or Papyros

Good suggestion - I messaged them via their FB page. They agree that they do not have a comparable white. The good news is that my supplier had just enough sheets of Bullseye for me to do what I need.

clear fine frit on top a of crack will heal many top layer cracks... but I have had a few that didn't quite disappear.

Thanks, I thought about using frit but I like the even consistency of the sheet. Basically this is the back for a piece that is framed for the wall. It needs to let a glow come through if hung in a window but block wall color if hung on a colored wall.

I am using COE 90 - typically double roll

that is comparable to Bullseye Lacy White or Transparent white? They are not totally opal, held to the light after fusing they let a little light through. However the dimensions (and cost) of Uroboros glass is a little more conducive to my current project.

HI Everyone, I have a friend who does lampwork and we are trying to figure out what to do with all the short leftovers she has. I would like to fuse them into a platter, but am struggling with finding both a schedule and insuring compatibility. I realize that 104 needs less heat than 90, but I seem ...

I have taken pieces up that high for multiple firings. As long as they didn't color shift the first time I have not had a problem. However the piece will flow along with the new glass you are adding so it will change. I am confused on what you are trying to do as an end result.

Try Aloe from the drugstore. I find the clear variety works very well, and is very inexpensive.