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Really enjoy the layering. Nice stuff!

But in any case it's not going to blow up in your kiln. The surface and sintering qualities change depending on whether you use the tin side or the top side in float glass, but they do actually work together. One of my favorite float usages is combining tempered crumbles with larger shards in a mosa...

I've never had it go bad; it's a kind of soft, waxy, pale yellow mass that feels a bit like butter but doesn't melt so fast. It's fairly hardish at room temperature but goes soft with any kind of handling. I generally have to chill it in the freezer for a few minutes to be able to harden and polish ...

Thanks everyone! The piece is submitted and they either love it or leave it and REALLY some people will never notice the tumor. It was made with all opaque glass and it does not look to be stretched so if it does not sell I will pancake it and re-slump. BUT am I correct in thinking that it is impos...

Victory brown is a petroleum-based wax and its combustion products are supposed to be toxic. I know if I burn out even small amounts of victory brown I must do it with as much ventilation as possible. Otherwise, the smoke that fills the studio is extremely acrid and makes it difficult to breathe. It...

Hi Morganica, When you say shorten the schedule, at which point? Thanks for the info on sprinkling the copper then capping. I think though the copper would go blue...I'll try and experiment some time! I'll give the next batch a scrub, see if that helps. Also, I have new copper coming soon, so I'll ...

With casting molds I clean and rewash each time. It's a pain to clean the little crevices though, does anyone have a clever way to make that task more efficient? Depends on the size of your mold. I have a sonic dental probe I use for cleaning casting detail that also works well for this. If your mo...

The graphite will break down in the kiln, after awhile, so it would be an expensive option. The sturdiness of the mold doesn't have all that much to do with whether or not you need to recoat the release. But...are you talking about FUSING the glass in the mold or SLUMPING it? If you are fusing in a ...

The Glasstac (or anything else you apply) has a certain amount of water and it has to go somewhere when it vaporizes. Generally you don't use enough of it to make a difference in bubbles, so it's not an issue. Use a lot, and it might be. Either way, an adhesive layer will very slightly raise the foi...

Even if the copper is flat here's still enough space for a little air between the glass and the copper, and the glass and the glass. The thing about trapped air is that it likes to travel to the point of least resistance and usually combines to make bigger bubbles. So it would be tough to have a com...

http://www.morganica.com/bloggery/2012/latest/tools-shelf-scraper/ I use BE kilnwash, very much like it (except it gets everything pink and I'm not a pink fan--what was wrong with purple or aqua or orange?) Kilnwash life really depends on what I'm doing. If I'm doing a full, flat-fuse firing of a w...

I've had a ring saw, Gryphon Omnisaw, band saw and tile saw. If I had to pick between them, no contest: Tile saw. I can make deep, straight, thin or thick cuts, I can rough out shapes with it, and it's very fast.My tile saw is a cheap, 10-inch eBay model with a slightly crooked table and a really gr...

By curious coincidence, I wrote about that earlier this week on the blog: http://www.morganica.com/bloggery/2012/ ... it-volume/

Yeah, there are some designs (and, I think, some glasses) that just aren't going to anneal well as tack-fuses, no matter how slowly you go. I've run into a couple, certainly.

Wow. That is gorgeous. I want a bathtub like that!

One of my signature pieces, is a rectangular platter, that has dimples. It is true that these leave a dent on the other side. These dents don't bother me. I wouldn't consider grinding the dimples. The theory is that any 3 points will create stability. So, yes it depends on your aesthetic. Certain s...

Oil and water do not mix. Given sufficient agitation the oil and water form a thick soapy like syrup. This will not help the grinding process as it provides lubrication (of sorts) rather than allowing the grit to do its work. Yes, assuming you have sufficient oil to make a good emulsification, rath...

The other thing you can do, btw, is leave your bowl intact but put it on a ring stand. It doesn't have to be big--I've used a one-inch glass ring on the big honkin ball molds. Just set it on the table and put your bowl on top, or glue it on. You can also grind a flat place on three store-bought marb...

I've done this with stainless steel pipe and 1/4 inch fiber paper, and it works well--I just use a schedule for the full thickness of the entire piece, pipe and all. But for that much mass (7.5 inches), you're not talking 3-4 days, it's more like 24 days. As Jeff mentions, you'll do a half-degree pe...

Dry plaster cannot be used in that ball surface mold with out leaving some sort of marks on the bowl. The slumping glass will pick up the texture of the powder by pressing and leaving a small lump in the bowl's bottom, at the touchdown spot. Very wet plaster poured into the bottom of that mold will...