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Valerie's solution is a settling chamber on wheels

I think ludo would stick to the glass

The recommendation that you line the ring with fibre paper remains valid whether stainless or ceramic. It is probable that your high top temperature was too great for the kiln wash. The crazing that you have is typical of glass sticking to the shelf. Bullseye kiln wash seems to perform better than s...

Think about the curing temperatures of the various elements you are using.
If the enamel cures at a lower temperature than the devit solution, you have to fire the enamel last.

Look at sinks for ceramic studios. I don't know the name, but they have two chambers. The water flows out of the top of the first chamber into the second. You can also have the second drain into a second series of settling chambers (although a bit of over kill) before going into the drain. You need ...

Firing strikers quickly may not promote the striking to the full colour. The maturation of the colour requires a minimum amount of heat work.

Marty,
I too was thinking of the edible kind.

I should know better than to try to recall my firing schedule without checking it which is what I did. 80% of the time, this schedule is perfect. I have made 100s of these vases. (no joke there). The reason for the pause with the schedule the same is just to let the glass catch up - with the uneven...

........ these are well annealed. 120 mins. @ 960, 120 @ 720. Floral former is about 5 inches at the top. Lots of unsupported glass. I know this is the problem, just not how to fix. I doubt they are well annealed - soaked for long times, yes. But this is not the same as well annealed in my view. I ...

Valerie Adams wrote:Yes, too thick will result in incompatibility cracks. My experience with thin brass inclusions (sheet and wire) is that it creates tons of little bubbles, like dirty frothy bubbles, all over the brass.

I agree. So this is where using powder or frit over the brass might help

I will try to help Hi, How're you all doing? Through a series of happy coincidences, I am now the proud owner of a new-to-me Skutt Electric Kiln (Model 1027-240) (for ceramics). The electrician installed the plug, I bought and set up the 20-inch octagon-shaped shelf and the pyrometer, fired the kiln...

I think if you look carefully, it is recommended to use a devitrification spray on pink opal confetti if it is not capped (with sheet or frit) What you observe is the early stages of devitrification. This colour (In almost all formulations - Bullseye, S96, Float) requires prevention of devitrificati...

I think you are going to have trouble.
5mm space is giving no allowance for the heat falling off at the outside edge. As you kiln heats unevenly, it presumably will cool unevenly.
I would try the schedule on clear glass first.

Try printing it on thinfire

A lot depends on how close to the edges of the kiln the larger glass is. The nearer the edge the more cautious you need to be. I can't fire anything that does not have at least 50mm space from the edge of the kiln in the big one. Smaller ones have tolerance for only 25mm from the edge.

This is not just slumping a small plate. This is slumping 6 small depressions inside a slump. The size of the depressions mandates a long slow slump. Higher temperatures lead to improper slumping, hang-ups and possibly devit. I realize that, but I don't think you're going anywhere with 1150 degrees...

You can peek into the kiln any time after the softening point, if the only way of seeing in is by opening the lid. Peep or bung holes are really good features on any kiln.

I don't have THE answer, but in my view you most often get the quality you pay for. Cheaper bits will wear more quickly, largely because the bonding is not so good, or there are fewer diamonds for the area. In my view

Most picture framing suppliers sell these, as they are the most common means of cutting glass for the covering of pictures. They normally have a breaking device incorporated for use after scoring.

Probably