WarmGlass.com

Sharol- I've been using the fiberfrax 970 equivalent in 1/32" for years. It's expensive- about $2/sq.ft. in 2'x160' rolls. I'm curious about the cost of "your" stuff. The 970 has a very faint weave on the front, a little rougher on the back but is the smoothest paper (once you get pas...

Glad this post came up . . don't think I would care for this system. I like thinking in terms of the safe speed limit on a particular stretch of heating and the destination - speed kills. I don't need to know how long it will take to get there unless I will be needed for firing intervention suck as...

It's the same programming as those "other" devices but seen from the time side. You enter elapsed time from start and then your target temp for that segment. One of my typical schedules reads 4:00 (hours:minutes), 1100 (temp F) 4:30, 1100 (30 minute hold) 5:00, 1470 5:15, 1475 (15 minute h...

I’m curious, how do you program AFAP on these controllers? My understanding is that you don't. You program how long it takes to get from one temperature to another. So there's no as fast as possible. AFAP on the Digitry is 1 minute. You're working with elapsed time from the start of the schedule.

Another closely monitored private board, but Pete is more irascible than Brad. It's mostly blowing but there are a few active fusers. No anonymity there.

Brad- One of my Canadian students uses it instead of VB- it's magnesium salt based, seems to be stronger than VB with less warpage. I asked on Pete's board, we'll see what comes up. I'll also call Jim Wiles (?) and see what he knows.

Anyone have experience with this stuff from Pyrotec (shelves, dams, molds, whatever)?

I wouldn't rely on thinfire for that. Do you need serious weight to dam your work?

Bonnie- "bricks" sounds ominous, large masses of heat sink. Can't you use something smaller, like cut up shelves or other kiln furniture to dam your work?

Bonnie- In my opinion those holds are completely unnecessary, as is any change in ramp up to 1000 (or so). You want to go slow enough to avoid thermal shock but that can occur anywhere along that ramp so going slower to 350 and then speeding up does nothing for you. What do the holds do? I'd like to...

Bonnie- I hadn't understood how much difference in height you had. I'd do it at 100dph to process temp, no holds or changes on the way.

I have issues with "120 to 350, hold 10, then 200 to 1250 hold 30"- I think it's mostly voodoo- but for glass less than 6mm thick you should be ok with that ramp. Did the glass get bonked (technical term) in any way before firing? I've healed cracks that hadn't separated by halving the ram...

Bonnie Rubinstein wrote:I noticed it ramping up- so it did anneal after. Maybe that is hopeful. But I may need to ‘disguise’ the line with some colored glass and that means re-firing. I wondered if that ensures success for healing, as well.

Why are you looking in the kiln on the way up?

Harmless hyperbole. I was thinking of some of the meaningless schedules posted here, like the 10 minute hold at 350, then a change in ramp to 500 with another small hold, and so on. Why hold (and why there) at all for a simple slump? What's going to happen? If it's faith-based, that's a valid reason...

I understood that any given abrasive grade contained a range; an 80 grit diamond lap pad included mesh sizes of 70 to 90, for example. Perhaps for something more exacting (like polishing lenses) a more precise grade is used?

200 dph to 1200, hold until slumped (look at it), then drop to 900 etc. No need for elaborate holds at 1100 etc.
Each mold will fill at a different time/temp.
Trying to flatten that piece will not give you joy. I'd give it away and start on the next one.

I'd be more concerned with incompatibility.

Don't put it down ANY drain.

We haven't had acrimony on this board for a long time- I'm not sure whether I'd rather see inactivity or conflict. Mustafa- This board is not the place you're looking for, and I don't think you'd get far on craftweb either. As Brad (the owner of this board) said, we're mostly interested in fusing gl...

Kerf. The width of the cut.