WarmGlass.com

Reread the entire thread. All the guidelines you need are there.

Everyone's kiln and practice is different. You'll find out what your parameters are when your work starts cracking on cooldown.

maybe Santa will bring you another kiln.

" Cracking the lid 1/2" just barely gives me a view beneath the lid."

There's nothing to see, move along now.
If you're in that much of a hurry (hurray?) then you need to buy another kiln.

Edcosupply.com?

Ice in the water! I'd like to hear the science behind that one. Maybe some vodka and a twist too? I have heard of surfactants being used in industrial applications. Seriously, if you're getting enough water at the right spots (I'm with Brad- warm water) it's the blade. Get the Result blade from HIS ...

Might be time to bring back macrame....

Rick Wilton wrote:I disagree, I sandblast glass, stone, granite, marble, steel, ceramic mugs, stainless coffee mugs, stainless molds, and rust covered car parts all the time. It does NO HARM to your media at all.

I have been doing this for over 20 years and it is just fine.

ditto

great save!

(I've got some minor issues with your schedule but we'll save that for another time...)

lots of manufacturers- google refractory fiber board, find someone local.

I'd put the IFB on the inside. VB on the hotface will break down eventually and give you crumbles in your glass (although vacuuming before every firing will help with that). Actually, if you lay the brick on the flat (dry, no mortar) you get a 4" thick wall that won't need anything else, not fo...

Your thermal shock didn't happen at 102F (unless you threw cold water on it). What's your schedule?

Terry- That's a tall order. Does Kokomo date their batches and number their sheets? Do they do any testing? Are they interested in testing for compat.?
We'd be working in the dark unless they started formulating for fusing and keeping track of their stock.

Wasn't Wissmach bringing in that awful Chinese 90 glass? Are they now doing it in-house?

So what happens with the class action suits?

Your initial fuse of strips can be fast- 300dph- with a serious bubble squeeze around 1100. Subsequent firings of a piece like that shouldn't be any faster than 100dph (up to 1000F) because of the thickness and the black part. Every time I think I can get away with a faster firing I am reminded that...

Well I understand the principle but can never get a clear answer on what is good. I can find all sorts of schedules for annealing but none for the turn up. Chris- My students want schedules- all I can give is guidelines; no one can give you the recipe for your work in your kiln (and what has "...

But there's binders in the refractories that burn off, dusts from working with powders and from sandblasting, mists from coldworking. Common sense ventilation takes care of most, particle masks the rest.

Can't help without seeing what you're working with.

McMaster-Carr

Need more details- size and weight of drops? any loops on them or will you drill or cradle them? how visible can the cables be? how professional does this have to be? who's installing it? public or private space?