WarmGlass.com

Elegant.

I just came across your magless index card....

Interesting topic. Working alone I position a fan to blow fumes away from me, gently, so as not to cool the soldering iron. With a group that wouldn't work as someone(s) :lol: would always be in the firing line. I've been thinking about a range hood exhaust fan dangling over the layout table. That ...

That's what I was asking- any experience with the desk top (ductless) extractors?

Greg- Good to hear from you. I think the station fans have charcoal filters in them. I always thought that the lead fumes were the least of the problem. Soldering is about 700F, way below vapor points. However some of the lead casting groups have discussed this and the oxide issue was brought up: so...

Specifically, ventilation for stained glass soldering. I know there are forums (fora?) for SG but I want to know what the denizens left here have to say. When I've messed with SG in the past I worked in front of a serious lab-style extraction hood but I will need to provide ventilation for 6-8 stude...

Have the American tourists come back? They were the only ones buying, last I heard. I have no idea what level of work you're looking for but get in touch with Hiyuli Liberman in Tel Aviv. There was a fabulous group show in the Eretz Israel Museum in 2015- try those participants (including some wonde...

I'm probably out of line again but....
You're asking some very elementary questions- on what basis did you accept this commission and are you willing to accept responsibility for the integrity of the piece?

Sometimes that's the only game available. I've had both great and miserable consignment arrangements. The best were based on mutual trust.

Tod wrote:That's when you need a good contract stipulating that the gallery does NOT own your work - ever!

and someone local who can look in every now and then.

Franzeska- My biggest (7'x 3'x 16") kiln will take 12 to 18 hours to cool from 700 to room temp, depending on what's in it. The Paragon GLs are much quicker. If I don't have anything really valuable or risky in the big kiln and I'm getting antsy, I can crack it ½" at 250F. That's at the fr...

Reread the entire thread. All the guidelines you need are there.

Everyone's kiln and practice is different. You'll find out what your parameters are when your work starts cracking on cooldown.

maybe Santa will bring you another kiln.

" Cracking the lid 1/2" just barely gives me a view beneath the lid."

There's nothing to see, move along now.
If you're in that much of a hurry (hurray?) then you need to buy another kiln.

Edcosupply.com?

Ice in the water! I'd like to hear the science behind that one. Maybe some vodka and a twist too? I have heard of surfactants being used in industrial applications. Seriously, if you're getting enough water at the right spots (I'm with Brad- warm water) it's the blade. Get the Result blade from HIS ...

Might be time to bring back macrame....

Rick Wilton wrote:I disagree, I sandblast glass, stone, granite, marble, steel, ceramic mugs, stainless coffee mugs, stainless molds, and rust covered car parts all the time. It does NO HARM to your media at all.

I have been doing this for over 20 years and it is just fine.

ditto

great save!

(I've got some minor issues with your schedule but we'll save that for another time...)

lots of manufacturers- google refractory fiber board, find someone local.

I'd put the IFB on the inside. VB on the hotface will break down eventually and give you crumbles in your glass (although vacuuming before every firing will help with that). Actually, if you lay the brick on the flat (dry, no mortar) you get a 4" thick wall that won't need anything else, not fo...