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Judy - Until I read the last post, I missed the part about the jump rings being silver PLATED. I thought they were solid sterling. If you decide to rouge buff them, be super-careful or you could buff the plating away. Is there a reason you're not using sterling jump rings? They really aren't that ex...

Good question, Judy! I forget that not everyone is part jeweler on this board sometimes. LOL. You can buy them from a jewelry supply place. They're in the current Rio Tools catalog on p. 398-399. I'd try both the white and yellow buffs...not sure which will do better for you for that application. Yo...

Yep! If you have a Dremel or Flexshaft, use a tiny muslin buff with a little bit of rouge on it to touch them up. The solder joint is probably going to show, though. Silver jump rings are meant to be silver-soldered with a torch and silver solder. Silver-soldering those puppies without breaking the ...

On another board (Crafts Report, NAIA, John Iverson's or PACA), I noticed several people recommended the services of a shipping company called "Art in Motion", I believe it was called, to ship work to shows. They specialize in shipping art. I've never used them, don't know anyone personall...

Somehow I got on the list for mailings to artists for public art projects for the City of San Jose, where I live. Every few months or so, I get a mailing from them with a call for a proposals. I didn't apply to be on this list and I don't know how I got on it, except that once I met a city councilma...

I couldn't bear to throw away some of my gorgeous stained glass scrap (lots of Yough), so I gave it to someone else on the show circuit who makes those concrete and glass pavers. They were happy to have it and I was happy to see that it would be used.

Geri

Although I don't know everyone who has responded to this thread so far, I have noticed something interesting about those I do know... I'm making some broad generalizations here...but here goes... Generally, it seems that the trend so far is that folks who have a "day job" and don't make th...

Another thing that could be causing the white edges is not thoroughly washing the glass before you fire it. When you tile saw cut or grind pieces, bits of glass may be left on the edge that will turn white when you fire them.

Wash, wash, wash and dry your work before firing.

Good luck!

Geri

Good question, Tony. I think if you learn something in a class, it's fair game for you to use in your own work in your own way. It doesn't make sense to me that anyone would teach you to do something and then not allow you to you it in your own work. LOL. I'm unclear about the teaching aspect of thi...

Carla! Good to see you here! Thinking about your question....when I was a kid, my mom had these "mini-muffin" tins that had openings that were really small...don't know how small, though. Anyway, if you could find one of those in stainless at a restaurant supply place, maybe you could use ...

To minimize the bubbles in your glass, you need to use the squeeze technique...I believe it's called that because glass blowers started doing something they call "squeezing" glass to remove the bubbles. I think Gil Reynolds coined this term in an article he wrote for Spectrum about the pro...

[ Hi Geri, That was actually what I was questioning. I didn't think glass could retain stress unless it was introduced at annealing. Maybe the delay in breaking, in your case, was that it was still cooling hours later. Was it thick? Or am I wrong about the residual stress thing? Els Both of the pie...

[quote=" Once when I first started fusing I took a piece out when it was too hot. That night about 3AM, it exploded into hudreds of little pieces. Scared the crap out of me, waking me from a sound sleep. LOL. quote] I didn't think you could get delayed breaking like that from cooling too fast....

I agree with Linda. If you soak cabs for about 15 minutes in Limeaway, the stuck kiln wash usually will fall right off. I slosh cabs around several times during the soak to aid in this process. No scrubbing is required most of the time. Good luck! Geri geri, is limeaway something available at my lo...

I agree with Linda. If you soak cabs for about 15 minutes in Limeaway, the stuck kiln wash usually will fall right off. I slosh cabs around several times during the soak to aid in this process. No scrubbing is required most of the time.

Good luck!

Geri

The best idea is to let it cool to room temp before removing it. In a pinch, I've wrapped it in several layers of heavy duty towels at about 115 and it was fine. Once when I first started fusing I took a piece out when it was too hot. That night about 3AM, it exploded into hudreds of little pieces. ...

Hi Camero - You've gotten some good information so far about the wait time on kilns... I hope this story about my last kiln purchasing experience makes you feel better about your wait. Some years ago I ordered a large custom kiln. The owner of the shop that was building it for me promised to have it...

This is a good question. Recently in my metals class, a woman approached me about a glass table top her son had. It was a float glass table top on a metal base. He put a hot pan directly on it one night. He heard that noise of glass starting to stress and break that we all know so well, but because ...

The best way is to make your own form to exactly fit the opening...there are many methods of doing this...fiberpaper and rigidizer, various plater-like mold materials, having one made from stainless. See the archives for more information in mold-making and mold materials.

Good luck!

Geri

You might want to try putting a product called "Bag Balm" on your hands after doing glass work. It was invented for dry cow udders, but people found it worked well on their hands as well. It is available in Drug Stores, I believe. The product that I use on my hands currently to deal with d...