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Havi, if you pick up any kiln wash on the back of your wafers, a quick soak in a water/white vinegar solution will allow you to gently remove it. Also, don't be afraid to manipulate your wafers after firing. I use a nail file, x-acto knife, grinder, etc.

I'd want to hear about what your desire was when creating this piece. Since I practice what I call 'intentional design' (probably why I struggle with abstracts), pieces like this are already a bit outside of my comfort zone. In general (and remember, this is my opinion, please don't take it personal...

Yep, agreed Terri! I was sloshing through a long bitch-fest post about someone being insulted by a response...only to realize they were talking about me!!! I had suggested somewhere that investing in a decent intro class and/or purchasing a few quality books would go a long way toward understanding ...

Lynn, you might consider it a blessing! At first, I was really excited to be able to give back just a little bit of what I've learned from this incredible board. But the FGF group simply isn't that interested in learning. Teach them how to pop a bubble and fill it with frit to refire and they're hap...

This 'technique' has taken the Fused Glass Fanatics Facebook group by storm. (Someone posts an 'interesting' potmelt and everyone makes a bunch; someone posts a crackle piece, and again, it takes off!) The original poster of this design allows the embedded wire, mesh, screen, chains, etc. to remain ...

Did you apply any kiln wash to those molds? It sure doesn't look like it, as the glass has really grabbed on to the edge of your molds. I doubt you're going to pick up the texture of that mold. I've seen others ask about it in the past and I own two; I've slumped into them quite a few times and just...

I fire single layer work to about 1385-1400 degrees.
I'll often leave a margin of sacrifice glass too and just cut clean edges after firing.

Hey Barry, are those samples pre- or post-firing?
They look great!

Yikes. That 'successful' piece looks fairly thick, which would require a very long anneal. The thing about incompatibility is that while a piece may not crack, break, or crumble right out of the kiln, it still likely has significant stress, which means it could break sometime later. Especially conce...

You've got a few things going on here! First of all, you say you're using 'Bullseye 96 coe' which doesn't exist. Bullseye Glass is considered 'tested compatible', meaning it works with their entire line of fusible glass. Bullseye does not use a coe number associated with their glass, although many g...

A general rule of thumb is that mica needs a full fuse temp to adhere to the glass. It'll act as a separator if you place it under your glass (against the shelf) and won't stick at all. I've tried it with slumping, which doesn't work for me (I only slump at 1150°) but I've had some success at firepo...

I've been screen printing powder onto glass for several years now (thanks to Lesley Nolan, who showed me the technique at Pilchuck in 2009). I often screen print designs in clear powder over irid as a last step before firing a standard two-layer piece. But I've also created plenty of 'parts sheets' ...

Spray A works great, as long as it's mixed really well, applied thinly and evenly (sprayed with a mouth atomizer works best for me), and taken to a full fuse temperature to fully cure (1425° minimum in my kilns).

Without photos it's pretty hard to help diagnose a problem. What's 'haze' to one person might be 'scum' to another and 'devit' to yet another. I've not seen MR-97 pull off a mold and move into glass. I have seen it leave a powdery white residue on my glass which simply wipes off. If it doesn't clean...

I've used those Pebeo paints too. As long as it's not a food-safe item, I think they're great. I had a project awhile back that needed to have vibrant colors to match my customer's graphic. Played around with my enamels and various paints before deciding on the Pebeo. I used both the 150 and 160 pai...

I plan on trying it with fiber at some point. Saved this pic of someone else's attempt:

In my experience Glassline paints need to go up to a full fuse in order to shine up. You can mix small amounts of enamels with clove oil, and they'll keep forever. I use tiny glass jars to store. The key is to really grind the enamel (I use Reusche) with the clove oil on a sheet of float glass using...

Hi Jim,
I just bought the Silhouette Cameo (great bundle price from Costco) because I saw on a FB group that someone had cut thin copper foil by attaching the foil to the cutting mat (which is sticky) and then taping a piece of paper over the copper. I haven't tried it yet but it's on my to-do list.

They don't. I guess it's an 'artsy' thing that they wobble which is why all of my ball molds are unused.

Some folks will place a tiny round of fiber blanket or even sift some dry kiln wash into the mold to create a flat spot. Or, you could lightly flat lap the bottom of your piece.