WarmGlass.com

I've just had my big side-element kiln retrofit with ceiling elements, so it can be used as a top-broiler, so to speak. I'm using it to slump lots of small pieces of glass, on corrugated stainless steel sheet. Question: how close can I safely place the glass to the top elements? 6"? 4"? I'd like to...

I don't see how anyone can own the process of cutting a piece of copper and fusing it between two sheets of glass. The idea is obvious to anyone who's ever had a sheet of copper and a fusing kiln. As for Jackson Pollock's "innovative technique", he himself said that it was taken from Native American...

I'd be reluctant to use thin fire, for fear that it would curl and cause problems. I'd use a thicker fiber paper.

Has anyone tried this with thin fire?

For larger pieces you probably need to find a local welder. You ought to be able to get them made for $25 to $50 each, but it may take some effort to find a welder willing to take on the work.

Some rocks have moisture in them and will explode or crack when heated in a kiln. If you're going to try this, first prefire the rocks to see how they react to the heat.

The commercial embossing products are brass. Plaster won't withstand repeated use at the necessary temperature (1300 to 1400 F).

Sara wrote:Brad isn't getting the bubbles, does this mean that you've solved that challenge too?

The jury's still out on that. My latest test firing got fairly severe bubbles.

I'll report more fully when I know more and can do a few more tests. And I'm sure Jim will let us know his thoughts, too.

Nikki O'Neill wrote:Tony and Steve: Check your WGB inbox for a message.
Technology and this board are so cool.
Nikki

Here's how cool it is, Nikki. You don't even have to tell them to check the inbox. The software will actually do it for you!

Also, please note that there is a Search capability for these forums. Just search on the topics you're looking for.

The Search button is toward the top of the page, just below the "Links and Resources" link.

I also am curious about how many of the WG board members went to Vegas. If I could figure out how to attach a poll to this post, I'd do it. Brad, am I dreaming, or did I see some sort of poll capability to this new-fangled board you've gotten us all so (almost) well trained on? No, you weren't drea...

Buy a postal scale. They're accurate and widely available.

I will post my results as soon as I've finished with the various tests. Right now the company offers several standard sizes, the largest of which is 20" square and costs $195 retail. I believe that custom sizes are available, but they're not cheap. The product is about 1" thick, one side is smooth, ...

Is it dangerous 2 sand n whats it like with ' corosive ' stuff like fluxes / copper etc http://www.warmglass.com/sheep.gif There's nothing in their materials about safety, wearing a mask, or anything like that. I've asked for an MSDS, so will see what that contains. I doubt if they've tried every f...

They've also told me that you can work the shelves with woodworking tools, but I haven't tried that.

Actually, it's easier than using cerium oxide. You can just use cheesecloth to smooth by hand, or if you want something really smooth than use a buffer attached to a regular drill (or just a car buffer without the cerium). I've fired the sample shelf I have four times and so far haven't had any stic...

Couldn't agree more, Sara. There are a number of things about the company that worry me, starting with their discount structure to retailers (it's horrible), their sales materials (lots of mispellings and such), and the lead times to get the shelves (way too long). But the version of the product I'm...

brad - the fusion shelves - are they smooth? also what about bubbles on larger pieces? D Very smooth. No bubbles at all. My understanding is that when they first introduced the shelves they did have troubles with bubbles, but they seem to have solved that problem. I'm using a 12" square shelf, so d...

I'm currently running experiments with the Fusion Shield kiln shelves, which don't require ANY kilnwash. Early results are promising, but I want to do a few more tests. So far the only major drawback is that the shelves are expensive.

I'll report more when I'm finished with my testing.

If you want your scraps to fuse together in the bottom of your mold, then you will need to fire higher than 1250/1300 F. Try around 1450/1500 F (800C). This should work, but make sure you have a good coat of kiln wash on your mold.