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That's the way I do it.

I would only use Ceramaguard as a small shelf, not a large one. And it's actually best used to build small pieces on (square foot or less) and transport to the kiln, where I'd put them on a regular shelf or on LOTS of posts for support. It's not really feasible as a large kiln shelf, but it's easy t...

As some of you know, Warm Glass ran an annual "Magless Exchange" from 2002 to 2015. We thoroughly enjoyed seeing everyone’s creativity and techniques come alive in your magnets. We decided it is time to bring it back but change things up by doing ornaments this time! For those of you that ...

I'm pretty sure you can make larger wooden clamps. Try Googling "make your own wooden clamps"

And it's entirely possible that both you and I are crazy....

We have a stainless table that we put padding on top. We use the padded shelf liner you can buy at Harbor Freight or probably most hardware stores. https://www.amazon.com/padded-shelf-liner/s?k=padded+shelf+liner Normally we have one person to hold the piece and the other to use the air grinder. If ...

Terry Gallentine wrote:Any suggestions for the webcam?

Mine's a decade old, so I'm sure they don't make that model anymore. I guess it's down to just checking reviews on some place like Amazon.

Don't know of an attachment for the RTC1000, of course there are other controllers, but would be expensive. Here's what I did in a similar situation: bought a webcam and set it up so it pointed directly at the display on the controller. Then I could access the cam via the internet and check on the t...

It can be fired without being capped but the top surface will be quite rough.

Normally, when the cone trips the kiln and turns it off, the kiln takes a while to cool from there to below 1100F or so, where it will no longer move. If you open the lid after the cone trips, then you're cooling it faster. Just close the kiln before it gets to 1100 or so. You don't need to do this ...

Back in the dark ages of fusing (the 1990's) I used a kiln with a kiln sitter. It worked fine for simple coasters or jewelry sized pieces. Basically I would fire and then let the kiln sitter turn off the kiln. After that, I'd just let the kiln cool naturally without opening. The main issue with this...

Some earlier comments on the Denver kilns: http://www.warmglass.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=42237&p=357880&hilit=denver#p357880 http://www.warmglass.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=42456&p=359320&hilit=denver#p359320 http://www.warmglass.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=2&t=4...

Never owned one, but Denver kilns have a reputation for not holding up over the long term. What does this mean? [sorry for my poor English] Does it wear out quickly?? i.e. Does not last long? Or Does this mean that it can't fire high? It means that the metal rusts and the fiber falls apart or droop...

Never owned one, but Denver kilns have a reputation for not holding up over the long term.

Can't see a photo. Try attaching again, if you can't get that to work, email me the photo and I'll put it up. Email is wg at warmglass.com

Bullseye's recommended annealing temperature was established at 960F/516C around 2000, then changed to 900F/482C about a decade later. As far as I know that's still their recommendation. (It's what's written in current versions of both Tech Notes 4 and Tip Sheet 4, as well as their Annealing Chart f...

raphy wrote:Thank you, if you use the powder binded or not how many layers?

The number of layers depends on the darkness of the powder, but in general we use about 4 grains thick.

For any of you who do sgraffito, do you use powdered frit or paint. If you use frit do you mix it with aloe to paint it on. I was taught years and years ago but have completely forgotten. Thank you for any help. You can use either powdered frit or enamel/paint. Generally, we use powder dry and pain...

I suspect you two are talking about two different products. The term "luster" is often used to refer to anything that's shimmery. For example, Thompson uses the word "luster" to refer to their micas. Heapsy, to you have a link to the pottery supplier that sold you the product? Or...

Bottom elements have been used in pottery kilns because a clay piece (especially a flat piece) on a shelf at the bottom of the kiln may not get enough heat to fully fire. (Top of kiln hotter than bottom of kiln) The bottom element helps even out the heat. This is especially useful in pottery firings...

I've had a situation where the glass remained on the coils for years, so that would be my first choice. Do nothing until you eventually need to change the elements.

If anyone else has a better solution, love to hear it.