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You just posted one, Kathy, so not sure what you're asking.

The best place to post is to go to the "Techniques and Tools" forum and click on the "New Topic" button. Then post just like you did this time.

There won't be any harm to the kiln. The worst thing that can happen is that you get little black carbon spots on the glass.

Yes, you can use hot glue, just don't overdo it.

—-I wondered if it was perhaps the paper she uses on the shelf.

Another possibility that makes sense. The paper, perhaps combined with the type of kiln.

Instead of glycol and water based mediums, use A-14 or pine oil. Your problem is probably the medium But why would that be? If it’s a medium issue, then wouldn’t I see the same results in either kiln? If I've read your post correctly, the problem occurs in electric kilns, but not gas kilns. The bin...

Barry Kaiser wrote: ↑Mon Nov 04, 2024 4:19 pm Instead of glycol and water based mediums, use A-14 or pine oil.
Your problem is probably the medium

Agree.

There are a number of ways to create this kind of look. In fusing, it's most often done with glass powders, but that wasn't the technique used here. What you want are two different materials -- in ceramics, they're glazes -- that dry at different rates. Basically, the top layer cracks as it dries (u...

We usually use more than one coat on the jewelry molds.

As an aside, I'm not a fan of the spray Zyp. The Safety Data Sheet is pretty scary: it recommends a respirator, safety goggles, gloves, and long sleeve shirts when using the product. https://www.dlartglass.com/PDFs/MSDS/ZYP%2520BN13.PDF If I have to use Zyp, I use the brush-able version, which at le...

The SS is a floral former, so I assume hard to get the zyp brush-on liquid to stick without running off(?) I used to use boron nitride on my floral formers, but I don't anymore. I just cut a piece of thinfire slightly bigger than the glass on top, put the thinfire on top of the mold and beneath the...

We brush Zyp onto jewelry molds all the time. Just apply with a brush, then let dry. We've also used it on stainless molds, same process. No sandblasting needed on the stainless. I'm not a fan of using it on ceramics, kiln wash is a lot cheaper. But if it's glazed ceramic, you'd probably need to san...

Yes.

Yes.

They're most likely way too tall.

Try this page: https://web.archive.org/web/20060501182 ... -help.html

Then click on the link to TSC Control Manual (Technical)

If that's not the manual you want, try the West 4400 Manual.

You're right, it's really old stuff, 10 to 15 years old.

For a short period back then Amaco had a fusible line, but it didn't last long. Not sure if it was made by Bullseye or someone else, but it's 90COE, just don't mix it with your 96.

Not sure what you mean by "Since there is no ramp up, its goes quickly to the setting." There's the same ramp up with side elements as with top elements, it's basically what you program. As far as temperature rise goes, the main thing having both elements on is it gets you up faster when y...

The infinite switch on top can be used to control how much heat comes from the top. In normal operation you set it to high, but you can dial it down if you wish. For casting, you often want side only heat, so can turn the top off. I used to believe that you had to fuse with top elements, but I no lo...

It will.

This is a really long shot, but here goes. There used to be (maybe still is) a blasting gun made by a guy named Bob Pickard and called the PAB Blaster. His site is dead, so I don't know if he is, too. Anyway, there's another guy named Eric Robert who says he has a similar product, but his site is re...