WarmGlass.com

Probably a good looking "ball of light" is in the eye of the beholder. There's a lot of variation in what that could mean or look like. Still, I like the idea of a rounded clear ball over yellow gold dichroic, just use a larger "bead" rather than a small one. You could also consi...

Really hard to do that, Barry. We've had pretty good luck reheating cast life-size turtles to shine them, using a firing schedule not unlike your suggestion (only to around 1350), but the problem is having to remove scratches. That takes a higher temperature or a much longer hold and is much more li...

Havi, if it's a flat piece it can easily be fire polished, assuming the scratches aren't that deep. Just fire to 1400F/760C and hold about 10 minutes, then anneal as usual. If the scratch is deeper, you need to go high, to as much as 1460F/790C or so. If it's not a flat piece, it's a lot harder beca...

Looks like it was closer to the elements on one side than the other. Is that possible?

Generally, blue bubbles come from a copper compound. They'll give you the beautiful bright blue bubbles in your piece. If you put too much copper (usually copper oxide) it will have black ugly areas like your other piece. Firing too high can also cause this problem. My guess is that the mica you're ...

You sure it's mica powder you added? Looks like copper or a copper oxide.

New controllers do have a program (or programs) in them. It's usually not a full fledged firing schedule, but a few steps that are used to test the controller out.

How high did you fire? You'd have to fire pretty far above normal fusing temperatures to get the glass to flow off the kiln shelf.

If you tack fuse at a low enough temperature you'll keep most of the texture. 1350F/730C is high enough to stick glass together and retain most of the texture. The higher above that you go, the more texture you will lose.

Very common, especial with reds. The higher the temperature, the more likely.

Michael, According to the MSDS, Bullseye thinfire paper is manufactured in Japan by LINTEC Corporation under the name "Paper Ceraform M. " I don't know how difficult it is for you to get product from Japan, but if you want to try, LINTEC's contact information is on this MSDS: https://www.w...

JestersBaubles wrote:Looks to me like you need more glass.

I was thinking the same thing.

Photo of piece.

To help you, we'll need to know what firing schedule you used, what glass as well.

What happened when you tried to upload the picture? What format was it?

What does the manufacturer recommend?

What you want to test is what the glass will look like. Small frit vs large frit, for example, will look very different. And different colors as well. Basically, before you spend a lot of money on glass, spend a little money with a smaller mold to make sure the color and transparency will be what yo...

Get a container. Put water in it. Mark the level of the water. Pour some water into the mold. Mark the new, lower level of the water. Now fill the container with glass until the water raises to the original level (the first mark). That's how much glass you need. The smaller the pieces of glass you u...

There's not a huge difference in the way the Colorline paints work than the Sunshine.

To get an absolutely straight line, use a resist and paint through that, rather than by hand.

We use Sunshine Enamels. Mixed properly, they work like oil paints or acrylics.

Caveat: we also sell them: https://www.warmglass.com/enamels

I owned a Nabertherm GF240 fiber kiln for nearly 10 years. It performed flawlessly, required less electricity than a smaller brick kiln, and was my go-to kiln for larger projects. Nabertherm is German; the kiln has fiber sides and top, with a brick floor. The fiber is rigid, not blanket. I eventuall...