WarmGlass.com

Refrasil is a product of the Hitco Co. I managed to get a sample a few years ago and it works. It is green hence the name Irish. They make several products that have different temp ranges. At the time the minimum purchase was a very large and expensive roll. I didn't want to spend my grandchildrens ...

china marker, grease pencil, paint pencil..............steve

I always list the dimensions that define the space the piece takes with the stand...........steve

GAS was wonderful. It's always energizing and inspiring being around artists of any medium. Frankly, I thought that warm glass was very well represented in all areas except demos. The galleries in particular were full of beautiful and thought provoking art using warm techniques. Traver had a show of...

I always try to think like the glass and like the kiln. A piece of glass wants to be the same temp throughout. Going up and down the kiln must accomplish that. If a kiln has only top elements and fibre board is under the piece than cooling could go faster. When you put side elements on, the edges ar...

I don't see the pieces thermal shocking if you go up and down slow enough. That being said, baffling is always a good safety net. Also, I would go slower than 200 dph. My program would be 100 dph to 1000 hold 1 hr, 100 dph to slumping temp, hold 20 to 30 min. full to 960, hold 3 hrs (if I have a wid...

Amy, what is the size and thickness of the piece. Describe the kiln. Size, where are the elements?.................steve

I'm having a similar problem, but, with the old thinfire. In one kiln I fire on 2" rigidized fibreboard, 1/8" fiber paper and thinfire. My top temp is 1490. I get a white hazing on the back of these pieces that will not come off except by sandblasting. In the other kiln I use a kiln shelf ...

I think that should be fine. You just have to be careful that your mold is cooling as fast as the surface of the piece. Glass wants to be at the same temp throughout...........steve

This is a quote that I have in my notes. I think it's from the ceramist Ruth Duckworth. "I make objects that feel comfortable to me. Whether it is art or craft is not important. That will be decided by history. The work must speak for itself and convey a sense of purpose."

Cindy: I think that you are pushing it already for a 22" rnd piece. However I think that you can go a bit faster on something 15" or smaller. I'm presuming that you are slumping on stainless or a mold that is less than 1/4" thick. My slumping program for a 22" piece is 30 dph to ...

Suzzane: I don't put the glass in until the heat is up to 1500 for several hours (depending on the size and thickness of the mold) for BE or 1350 for Gaffer crystal. I find that the glass will start to flow while the mold is still gassing or not up tho the same temp as the glass. In some molds (depe...

I put thinfire on top of 1/8" fibre. Fired to 1510, 15 min hold. I have very fine dust like particles stuck to the back (thinfire side). Without sanblasting can anyone advise a way to get this clean? Also, is there a limit to temp that thinfire should go to?..............steve

GranQuartz has one that seems to be the same as the Alpha 658. It is only about $200.00. I have the Alpha pneumatic. I'm very happy with it It's light and very easy to use.............steve

I will stand corrected as far as having someone certified to teach the first time student. It is important that beginners understand that glass will thermal shock, it needs to be annealed, etc, etc, etc. Also safety issuesneed to be covered. Tony: Yes, my students have had some experience, however m...

My 2 cents. What we do is not rocket science. I think that an instructors certification is their bio and their work. Frankly, the techie stuff is not of real interest to me. I learn what I have to learn to do what I have to do. When I teach I depend a lot on TA's, students with more experience, or t...

depending on the color, I sometimes stop with 400 grit silicon carbide powder (applied with 600 grit sandpaper). I haven't gone further that 600 grit silicon carbide powder. As long as no scratches appear I'm happy..........steve

Tony: Yes, I use the pads after sanblasting. Some pieces have high and low spots so I have to switch to 400 grit silicon carbide, plenty of water, 600 grit wet/dry sandpaper with a sponge between my hand and the paper, and finally TIME. I'm so taken with the finish both in appearance and touch that ...

BE's suggested schedules are for pieces up to 12" in diam. I find tht when I get over 12 " many of the rules change. If you have side elements than the outside of the piece is heating more because of its proximity to the elements. This requires a much longer anneal or preferably baffles in...

I sandblast with 220 alum oxide, than hand lap with 400 diamond pad and/or 400 silicon carbide. I do this before kilnforming or in the case of a flat piece before matte firepolishing. My kilnforming or polishing temps differ with colors and range from 1140 to 1190...........steve