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I hate to be so dense, but I'm still not clear on the original arrangement/layout of the slump. Marty, your first post implies that it's obvious from the photo that she was slumping into the mold, but I asked my original question because that was not obvious to me, at all. Your later post indicates ...

Was the blank circular to start with? Were you slumping over the mold, or into it?

I tried using a Dremel and Cerium and ended up slinging white gook all over the place. If I slowed it down to minimize the slinging, I didn't get much done. I'm a big believer in using the float and grit - it's easy and effective. You'll be surprised at how fast it goes.

I, too, thought you were going way faster than I would have. As an example, here's the schedule I use for a gently sloping 2-layer dish I often make: 150/1100/10 50/1150/30 FAP/900/30 100/800/0 180/700/0 FAP/125/0 OFF For me, with the layout used, in a Paragon Fusion 10, this results in a perfect sl...

I got some dichro frit (can't remember where, now) and was disappointed with results using it. It had been created by crushing/breaking dichro sheets, and hence each piece had a significant surface area that was not coated. When I fused it as a decoration, there was was very little of exposed coatin...

Is the nut left-handed threaded, by any chance?

Also, an impact type electric drill with a socket might do wonders at jarring it loose.

If price were no object, what would one expect to pay for a Nabertherm clamshell one-meter kiln? Just ballparking?

@Cynthia: OK - I see. I guess I was thinking of the curve in the wrong plane when I read that and just ignored the parts about rotation and vase - sloppy reading :oops:. I think OP has really presented three problems here: 1. Flatten and smooth the rim. You'd [typically] want the rim to be in the sa...

@Cynthia:

How does that jig work with the lips of circular pieces, such as a drop vase? I'm just so snakebit from the disastrous consequences of applying unbalanced stresses to such pieces, I may be looking for problems where they don't really exist?

I'd be careful of trying to bevel the outer edge using the loose grit. I guess, in theory, it's possible, but I've managed to break two vases attempting that. I think the problem was the stress induced by the uneven pressure that was being applied - it was essentially all one on very small arc of th...

We polished the rims of our drop vases in a class I took at Hot Glass Houston using 1/4" float "pads" and wetted silicon carbide grit. It was AMAZING as to how fast it went - far, far easier than I ever thought it would be. I bet it didn't take more than 5 minutes at any one grit, and...

Bullseye's Medium Channel Plate (and I guess the other available lengths, as well) makes a dish we think is great for sushi. It's a shape that's not nearly as common as some other sushi plates and you may consider this an advantage or disadvantage, from a marketing standpoint - YMMV.

I guess my concern was with the 83dph (I guess that's 83 deg. C?) ramp down. Shouldn't that be on the order of 48 deg. or so?

You're right - 8 mm. At any rate (no pun intended), isn't that ramp speed very high?

Tim, Bert, Cynthia: Do you think that anneal ramp speed is appropriate for what's perhaps a 12mm or so blank? Just seemed pretty fast, to me.

How thick is the bowl (strip width)? The drop from the 60 min hold seems kind of fast, too me - even for 6mm. I'm guessing if your piece is made of strips your blank is > 6 mm and hence would require a much slower drop than you're using. But: I'm used to deg F., and Bullseye glass, so I may have thi...

@Dana: Very nice! It was at the edges that I thought OP was concerned. I guess, if you're doing a flag, you want to make sure that the stripes are as straight as you can make 'em, AND that the edges all align. It's at the edges where I anticipate coldworking to be required to achieve true straightne...

@Dana: What if GlenfordGlass wanted, say, 1/4" wide flag stripes? I had not thought of the very narrow stripes afforded by on-edge layup, however. I'm thinking, though, it would still be somewhat difficult to get a bunch of individual on-edge pieces to fuse such that the end result consisted of...

I probably wasn't clear - I thought the original question had to do with the expansion/contraction of the steel ring itself. Wouldn't you have to have glass that fit very,very, tightly inside the ring to start with, before the contraction of the ring as it cooled caused a problem? That is, the diame...

Dammit! Have you just given me yet another variable to worry about in doing fused glass work? I would have thought that the thickness of the ring was so small compared to its radius (and hence the glass inside the ring), that the linear differences due to thermal contraction/expansion of the differi...