WarmGlass.com

Usually they mean a defined price range, as in a good price point for impulse gifts.

Actually, that's pretty conservative for a slump, especially if you've got 2 or more thicknesses (1/4"+). I slump 3/8 to 5/8" and have learned (the hard way) to slow slump @ 100dph.

Slow man Marty

kitty- 30 to 60 minutes at 1500 to 1540 will do it. a soak at about 1240 on the way up will help. marty

Kelly-- Im not sure if it's worth reaching into the kiln at 1000F to save strips of paper. US$0.02 Marty

Wonderful new stuff in the WG gallery!! Check it out!

dani- coops and academics don't pay their help (much). they also don't take out expensive ads in journals. i don't mind the 50-50 if the gallery is selling at retail for me (something I don't particularly like doing). i don't know what happened to all the capital letters today, maybe just lazy. famo...

Jeri- the usual woks are mild steel. Look for stainless ones.

Sharon- search for molds or stainless steel (or email me).

I don't see it as a major privacy issue; I'm not collecting lots of names and I'm not sending out tons of junk. It's rare to be turned down when I ask a browser if they'd like to be on my mailing list. And I do keep the addresses from checks and I do ask for them with credit cards. And I don't share...

You need stainless steel- eventually mild steel will pit, spall, and generally mess up your work.

I've found cast iron useful but not as good as stainless.

Dirt works too (stoneware, porcelain, etc.)

Lots and lots in the archives.

Marty

Badger airbrush with a small, noisy, cheap Sears compressor. Dilute kilnwash 5 or 6 to 1. If clogging persists, filter through pantyhose (only good use for the stuff that I can see!) before spraying.

Lauren- you can try for 60:40 but most galleries will want 50:50. Galleries that get by on a 40% markup are either fooling themselves, not doing what they're supposed to do, or just lucky IMHO. I wouldn't change the terms that you've got printed up- but you may have to think of them as a bargaining ...

Au contraire, mon amie Brock- depends how smooth you want the back of the next piece to be. I'd sandblast or steelwool, then heat-n-spray.

margaretneher.com

Lauren- You've got your work, you've set the price you need to get (wholesale)- are you consigning or selling? If consigning, you need an agreement, might only be a letter to be signed by both of you stating that the work belongs to you until sold, the retail price and the percentage you will get, w...

For David- Spectrum produces a continuous ribbon of glass- it's not cut until it reaches the cool end of the lehr. Theoretically they could custom-cut at that end.
Marty

I'm not buying it- someone comes into your house and barfs over that painting on the wall that you were really fond of? Even if it's a big-eyed waif with a puppy on velvet, I don't care. Go out of earshot and snicker if you must (and I have) but be polite. Find the gallery that works for you, or go ...

It's a can of worms- I would wait to be asked.

My US$0.05 (inflation).

Marty

Rodney- it's not quite the same- I'd like the acid finish to be a little "wetter"- but it is permanent. The sandblast/acid finish does add another tool to the arsenal- I can use brighter colors and have them quiet down a little. If you're thinking about trying it, get a small amount and ru...

Bert- I'm using HIS's new ammonium bifluoride Vari-etch. Marty

Now that I've gone to acid etching I can agree with Paul, that it does seem like cheating. But before the acid, I was buying armorall in the BIG bottles and marvelling how it covered sins and brought the color back up after sandblasting. I didn't really start to worry about giving customers care-and...