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Lepages 100% glue has mirror applications listed. It isn't an instant grab glue so support during curing is needed

Just because something like Boron coatings are new and expensive does not mean that they are better than traditional coatings such as Bullseye kiln wash. My suggestion would be to get a dremel out and taking safety precautions, grind away the glass. Then I would sandblast the mold and apply kiln was...

Low firing temperature clear enamel.
If it hits the plaster mold you'd have to make it will make a mess.
If it runs through you'd have a blob on the back side.
A glue that appears to work for glass with unknown longevity is Lepages 100% glue.
The project being discussed, just buy new old glass.

Forget anything but number 1.
Seek out new old glass.

1. Buy new old glass is the answer. Make something with the old broken glass as a memento. 2. Obtain a flux that will assist in the melting of the glass. Apply it to the broken edges and assemble and fire. Problem will be the inevitable missing bits and the change in sizing and shape caused by the h...

frit could tend to grab kilnwash. kiln wash does need to be reapplied. Opalescent glass will grab kiln wash more than transparent glass. Keep you small kiln with manual controls. buy a pyrometer and install it so you can watch the temperatures. You will learn far more than if you go directly to a ki...

Now you can begin to understand the difficulty of making the box!
Keep playing with the glass but be sure to keep notes.

Drinking glasses and bottles are made on ribbon machines that will spit them out one per second. Hot glass can move that fast and you want to control melt it in a teeny kiln? On older warmglass websites before the crashes, there was a members gallery and in those photos was a fantastic glass box ass...

One way to get the water out of the compressed air so that the separator can do its job is to cool the air and a low technology way to do that is to install a coil of small diameter copper tubing between the compressor and the water separator.

I found that with a mold containing mica in the mold matrix that the mica left marks in the glass.
Your experience may vary.

crates can be customs checked. Beware of the kind of screws being used to seal the crates. If they don't have the right screw driver handy to open the crate, they use crowbars. Needless to say the crate will not close properly after such treatment. Been there done that.

Heat shelf. Turn off power. brush on kiln wash. Yes it will sizzle. Repeat until you cannot see shelf surface. Helps to apply at right angles to previous coating. Different kiln washes have different amounts of clay that cause it to stick or not stick to shelf. Some people swear by Primo. Bullseye's...

Don suggested "some crazy people". An alternative to paint that could drive you crazy would be to use sheets and powders of tint glass layered and also sand blasted thinner so as to change the colour densities. Guaranteed to be difficult and drive you crazy in the process but probably no m...

Multiple firings, multiple coats will possibly give you the result you want. Silver stains fire down onto disposable whiting. (you don't want random silver in your kiln) Paints/enamels are fired face up unless you don't mind them sticking to whatever they are place on to fire. Spray booth absolutely...

speed kills.
If you want to load a kiln sooner than the one you have wants to cool down the answer is to buy another kiln.
There are no shortcuts to glass making.
You would not want to sell a piece and have it break months later because you didn't anneal it.

However you may find that less is more than that suggested by Barry. The less you use, the less there is to burn out in the kiln and to not leave residues.
It will depend on the CMC you buy and how much glue power you need to use.

I was also told 40+ years ago that you were supposed to scrape the connector wire ends before making the connection with thermocouple leads.
And as well to tighten the connections and to re-tighten them an hour or so later.
The sending units with Digitry are nice.

Higgins glass for examples of what is possible

The glass you made had more heat work and thus was more likely to devitrify.

Since heat is the enemy on all things electrical I would suggest going for the presumably extra capacity of the 50amp. What would your local electrical code say? Further to the above, what is saved if the kiln stops running because of the smaller SSR you cheaped out on? Time and glass will be lost i...