WarmGlass.com

Thanks for all that valuable info, Ed! Will check these options out.

FYI- I am convinced this was a scammer.

So, as a head's up to all- I think this guy is attempting to scam me. Scammers do this to artists and want to purchase by check.. say their own movers with pick it up and ask for your info. I suggested PayPal a few times and he does not want to do that. He did not ask me how the glass would be hung,...

If they send a check, I could always have it cleared first and then ship, I imagine.

Good info- many thanks!

I will not be in front of the buyer.. they are emailing me; I believe square is an in-person tool. PayPal may be my best option.(?)

Hi guys,
I have not yet sold directly from my website, so this is new for me. If I get a potential customer who contacts me and wants to buy my art, what is the best (most secure) way to get paid currently (Paypal, etc.) ? ( he asked if a bank check will do) thanks! Bonnie

yes, I need weight- the steel rods lie next to the art and would be held in place by the brick fragments. (paper covering the rods.)

yes, I have some long steel rods I can hold in place with some small brick fragments and cover with thin fire paper to prevent spalling issues. That would prevent the heat sink. thanks!

Update- I did re-fuse with very slow ramp and anneal. I believe the piece is solidly healed. Yes, the line remains, as predicted. I am about to fuse a duplicate piece, same width and dimensions. I am wondering about those bricks on the 2 sides.. I would have them there to ensure I get an over 1/4&qu...

probably they should. But the bricks are so dense and a different material; plus I was wondering if they also 'block' the heat at the edge.

Marty, thanks. Why would I not want to have holds or changes? For instance, if I ramp up at 50 to 350, then 75, and later 100, is that an issue? What is holding not advised? I am wondering….Do you think there is any chance that the 3 lines (former cracks) were created because I have bricks on those ...

Marty- some of the glass, pre-firing, was 11.5 mm. The base was 5.5mm.. some areas had another 2 layers of 3 mm, so another 6mm. It was also 24 x 30. So, I think big enough to ramp slowly. I am thinking, even tho the line seems solid, of firing again for insurance.

I was looking at it through the peep hole at 1400, because I wanted to determine when to stop the fuse based on the art. I do not open the kiln. I have now taken the glass out; it has 3 faint hairlines. I have not seen this before in my work,. This glass base is 5.5 mg. So, as it is very thick -mayb...

I noticed it ramping up- so it did anneal after. Maybe that is hopeful. But I may need to ‘disguise’ the line with some colored glass and that means re-firing. I wondered if that ensures success for healing, as well.

I have a 24 x 30 piece in kiln, double thick clear base with with some layered glass throughout. I can see on a clear area (no layers) a hairline crack. Still too warm to take out, but it is there for sure. I have made many pieces before, no problems. It is System 96. I blocked the sides with bricks...

I have been using hollow core diamond bits with water to drill the holes. Very safe.

Hi Jim,
For the size and weight of my work, not willing to risk. Also, the back of my work is not smooth, but has slight bumpy irregularities, so not sure if this would affect the bonding. I will be trying Hang Your Glass for smaller work in the future, however.

Thanks, Tony. I have been debating with myself about whether to use 4 edge grips, 2 on bottom and 2 on top- whereby the glass is sitting inside of the grips for support; or 4 standoffs, whereby the bolts inside drilled holes support it. I have used edge grips in the past. But this client wants to us...

P.S. the holes will be about 5/16" diameter.

For this 24" x 40" piece, I am about to drill 4 holes not far from 4 corners (5" in from width, 2 1/2" from top and bottom), to secure with stand offs to the wall. The overall glass is about 1/4" thick, except for the tack fused, thicker elements, as described above. Since t...