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The low, medium and high settings control the speed of heating. In actual fact they normally control the percentage of time the power is on. You can achieve any desired target temperature with any of these settings. It will take longer on low than medium.

Bert Weiss wrote:After you slow down, level the mold, and level the glass. And, don't forget to remove the level

In my view you both are firing to hot. It is much better to fire low and long. This also will help avoid the marks on the underside of the piece. It sounds to me like this is a fairly shallow mould, so 630C for 20 - 30 mins should be enough. Observe when the glass is fully formed. If it is so before...

I have had some experience of fusing glass over bones. Bones are mostly calcium. Some of that calcium is lost during firing, but not much. very thin bones, like a sheep's shoulder blade fade away at the thin edges. Glass will crack over strong under cuts. If you do not use weathered bones, stay out ...

If in doubt fire without any glass on it to see what happens

Use a slower than usual rate of advance. A bubble squeeze is essential.

You might use shards of glass around the edge. You might even cut the glass larger than the final size to cut away the marks of the "chads"

2.5 is the approximate specific graivity of all soda glass. Lead glass and others are different.

use a dot of vitreous paint

A note on the processes of cutting glass is given here: http://verrier-processes.blogspot.co.uk ... ss_12.html

Thanks Tony

Borax is the flux. If you are using washing powder borax there may be additives that leave a residue. I would not be washing with borax in any case.

It has been reported here thar silicon carbide leads toward less clean results upon fire polishing

What is th soak at 371C going to do?
In my view - nothing. It is below the strain point, so no further annealing can be done. The aim to me is to steadily cool the glass to room temperature. The. Soak does not do that.

You've made me think of holding a workshop on making colour samples. Thnaks

It bothers me that Bullseye charges for this. Not really a particularly wonderful way to support the people who buy their glass, to charge them to see how to use it. I wish Bullseye would reconsider that. No other manufacturer I can think of charges you for ideas on using their products. I find the...

Hi Steve I just went to your website- nice work. There is so much good info but my head is swooning 8-[ ! The annealing info was interesting- can you direct me to more specific blog posts? Thanks so much. If you use the search box at the top left of the blog you can search the blog posts for the it...

Look at the tutorial on the main site www.warmglass.com

I'm confused. 1114 is deep royal blue.

Black haze does not sound to me like devit

Grind with successively fine sandpaper or diamond pads and water until a luster, then fire polish