WarmGlass.com

"Just read an interesting letter from Skutt kilns about how to calculate kiln electrical costs. Basically, you take the kiln's stated kilowattage, multiply that figure by the number of hours in a kiln firing cycle and then multiply that result by the cost per kilowatt hour in your area." T...

Barb: Didn't get it. Replied to you yesterday by clicking on "email" and got my copy. Problem with your email? Hadn't caught on to "private messages" feature. Will try that.

The site you listed has some very interesting wrinkles on decal applications.

I have purchased decal paper from MicroMark (http://www.micromark.com) and BelDecal (http://www.beldecal.com/)
both of which sell retail quantities on line.

The Victoria and Albert Museum in London. A huge collection of high class craft objects from many periods. Also the ancient glass in the British Museum. There is good stuff at Broadfield House Glass Museum, Kingswinford, near Birmingham, and at The World of Glass (the Pilkington Museum) at St. Helen...

I've posted at

http://www2.cemr.wvu.edu/~venable/xerog/

I've worked out a couple of ways of transferring toner from a computer laser print or xerox copy to glass. When fused or fired, the black turns brown, but otherwise the copy is preserved and becomes bonded into or onto the glass. I've done half-toned photos 7 inches high, and about 8 point type. I'v...

Pyrometers are CHEAP to make. You'll waste a lot of glass without one. See:

http://www2.cemr.wvu.edu/~venable/rmi/s ... ermo-1.pdf

I have NOT gotten my system to work with a modern laptop. The problem is that the machines I have tried had non-classic serial port addresses, and limited technical documentation. For my system you dedicate an old desktop PC to the job. The type that is thrown away or sold for $25. Any old "IBM...

I've continued to use in regularly - on a "hobby" basis - but have not done much further evolution of it. The only known problems are: 1. Letting the thermocouple slip out of position. 2. The mid-night roll-over doesn't work - Keep runs under 24 hours and set the computer's clock before st...

Jan de Jong in The Netherlands said: But perhaps "Figuro" from the firm PROvetro has been used ?? ... See: http://www.tgk.de/katalog/245-246.pdf I looked at the site. Unfortunately it is short on real information since it is not clear what kind of material is involved. i.e. glass, enamel, ...

I've been using cheap fold-over bails from http://www.firemountaingems.com
on some things. They have a wide variety of cheap findings. For the classier stuff I go with Rio Grande.

According to discussions on the Craftweb blowing forum, some opal glasses tear up furnaces because they contain flourine/flourides in their chemistry. If some Bullseye opals are flourine based, their reaction to etching materials may be very different than those opals which are not, and also much di...

My understanding of etching chemistry is this: Biflourides in water dis-associate to form VERY weak hydroflouric acid (HF). Varietch, Etch-All, and the other craft preparations are "completely safe" (only) because there is so little HF involved. HF attacks and disolves silicates SiO and le...

All(?) of the easily available glass etchants are bi-flourides, frequently in water, although weak acids may be added. In general, you can only do "white" surface etching with them. These may be found locally at a craft store such as Michaels. To deep etch, hydroflouric acid in combination...

I have a Harbor Freight 7" OVERHEAD tile saw. I'm using a thin 6" Lopacki blade with 1/2" styrofoam under my glass. I'd like to have a 7" blade for it. While ordering some other diamond products from Lopacki last week, I suggested to the lady taking my order that they should cons...

Monday I made a reservation for a motel room for GAS at the Kings Inn, about 1/2 mile from Seattle Center. Closer (and further away) costs more. Their normal rate is $69, but I got a better price by mentioning the GAS Convention rate at http://www.kingsinnseattle.com/toppage1.htm The other cheapie I...

There are also a variety of photo-sensitive resists. I bought some, but haven't got to trying it yet.

These are typically used for making awards and trophies.
http://www.photobrasivesystems.com
is one source of information.

If you want a useful response you should provide more information:

Liquid or sheet?
Photo or hand cut or machine cut?
Wholesale or hobby quantities?

For a lot of simple jobs, Contac "shelf paper" works just fine and is probably locally available.