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Hello.

Does anyone know how this was made? Blown? Cast?
Peter

Does the silver grey look metallic?

There might be some oil or residue on the mold.

Perhaps firing it in your kiln to a low temp might burn the oil off? Washing it with soap and water might work as well.

rosanna gusler wrote:i find that most devit problems can be eliminayed by venting to 1000f. i hold for 20 or so there as well. r.

Thanks Rosanna.

Just curious - What happens at 1000F that requires venting?

Lauri Levanto wrote:
A good tip
that leaves one nagging question. Is it faking? I mean that a glass piece should
be of glass and not turn mattif cleaned with acetone or turn yellow in sunlight.

Lauri, I said it was a solution. I didn't say it was the best solution!

With the powder vibe, the frit would stop flowing.

It would clog up at the outlet.

The solution was to unblock the clog by pushing a toothpick into the outlet, tapping it a few times, and then you would continue....until it blocked up again.

An alternative is to lightly sandblast the glass surface and then paint/dip/airbrush a coat of clear acrylic.

This gives it a wet. shiny look.

You have to sandblast first otherwise the acrylic will easily chip off.

Thats it!

Thanks Don.

Hello all, I recall a post some time ago about a copper stain that stains glass transparent red. It wasn't an enamel or a glass paint. Instead, the glass itself changed colour - si milar to silver stain but rather than yellow glass it produced red glass. I can't find this post. Does anyone else reme...

There are companies that provide acid etching and acid polishing for a small fee.

It would be great if you could have a similar tool for courser frit.

Courser frit makes a more transparent/translucent glass.

Is there any advantage in doing a mesh melt rather than carefully placing the glass in the mold?

Can I add beeswax to Victory Brown wax to make it a little more malleable? If not - does anyone have a recommendation of wax that is softer and that will stick to a base of Victory Brown wax? Barb Barb, you can by different grades of hardness of victory brown. Also buy it from a metal casting found...

Hello. I was speaking to the owner of a commercial glass art studio (who works with full sheets of thick glass...his kilns are huge!). He said that if your kiln is well calibrated and you know the exact annealing temperature of a glass eg bullseye, system 96, gaffer, etc) then you only need to do a ...

Jen contact this company. They have a huge range of glass stainer and related products.

http://peliglass.eu/brandschilderglasverf/

Hitting it with a hammer is applying too much force.

Try putting it in a plastic bag, tying a knot in the plastic bag, and dropping it from a moderate height onto a hard surface eg stand on a chair and drop it on it's side onto concrete.

Laurie,

What type of fibre paper do you use?

Pete

A much better material is chopped ceramic fibers. (zirconia based fibers instead of glass) You sprinkle a handful into the water before your add your investment powder and it makes the mold really strong and porous (allowing steam a pathway out) ive had no cracking since using this product. Its has ...

I gave you a reply in another post about using stoneware or porcelain paper clay that you can fire up to 2372F/1300C and use without kiln wash/separator but you completely ignored my post.

I have cast into bisque fired earthenware paperclay without kilnwash at 1560F/850C and it's worked perfectly, but that will only work once (if you cast the 2nd time, you need kilnwash). There are stoneware paperclays and porcelain paperclays that can take much higher firings. I think porcelain paper...