WarmGlass.com

The book sounds intriguing. Can you give us a time table, and details like price? Judging by the piece you showed us I'm ready to preorder the book! \:D/ It won't really be a book, just a webpage with lots of info for all to read and learn. When it's done I'll just post it on the board, just for fu...

sooooooooooo sleeeeeeekkkkk, chiccccccccccc and slender......(I guess this diet i getting to me :lol: MAGNIFICO!!!!!!.....You are one talented BUCKEYE...... How much difference did you allow the the red? Ron I love ALL your work and always appreciate you kind help! I have not yet purchased any cold...

Welcome Yes, the enamels are similar to frit and they are fired onto the glass. Now for your piece and how it was fired. Your right in thinking it should be fused first and then slumped. Typical fusing temperatures are several hundred degrees above what your glass will slump at. Since you don't have...

Just curious who "THEY" are and if you really want to be part of "THEM"?

Did "THEY" just come up with the no mold deal, or is it written down? [-X

More fun to play the game when the rules are know before the kickoff.

Sounds like a group I'd want to avoid.

Clifford Ross wrote:Cast your butt in glass and tell the panel to kiss it! :badgrin:

As long as you can cast it without a mold.

Judy Schnabel wrote:Ron,

I love the colors Is the mold a commercial mold or did you make it?

Love the shape also.

Judy

Thanks Judy

The mold for this is one of my creations. I carved a sheet of Sytrofoam to the shape I wanted and draped a slab of raku clay over it, bisque fired to about 1600.

Ron

Another thing it might be is condensation stains from moisture. If you dry kiln shelves in the kiln it may cause moisture condensation stains around the lid. The moisture evaporates quickly once the kiln heats up but it can leave a stain. I see this on my kiln frequently. If you dry shelves this way...

Huh..... as I don't have a proper cold working tool (wet belt sander), I have had problems with my sides caveing in a little - giving it that fluted kind of look. How did you prevent that if you didn't use a WBS?? :? :? The edges on this piece aren't perfect, they do have a slight scolloped look wh...

Kathie Karancz wrote:Gorgeous!!!
What type of tool are you using to cold-work your pieces??? I need to buy something soon.

Thanks Kathie.

On this piece I only used a flat lap grinder to grind a small flat on the bottom so it doesn't rock.

Ron

Michael McNerney wrote:Hey Ron,
Is this the piece that you and I were discussing on the phone tuesday evening? It is wonderful, GREAT WORK

Michael

Thanks Michael, that's the one.

Roon

Just playing around with a color combination that has a real rich flavor to it, at least to me it does. About 5 x 17 inches.

Spectrum black, red and almond.



Ron

A little clarification about my previous post. I think with rapid heating from 1250 to full fuse you're actually causing the shelf to warp. Looking at the kiln configuration tells me the shelves are probably seeing a lot of uneven heating. If the shelf is sitting on short posts there isn't any heat ...

I don't understand the need for all the speed between 1250 and full fuse. Slow down and let your glass conform to the shelf. Add a soak at 1225 or 1250 of about 20 min and then creep up to full fuse over about 45 min. I swear I could fuse on a gravel road without bubbles. Just slow down and save you...

Marilyn Kaminski wrote:Coarse, medium, fine, or superfine?

- M

I find the fine and superfine to be the most useful.

Ron

The diamond pads will work, but I find them hard to control on small edges. One slip and you scratch the surface of your piece. For fine details I like to use diamond honing sticks. http://shop.woodcraft.com/Woodcraft/product_family.asp?family%5Fid=225&gift=False&0=dept%2Easp%2Cdept%5Fid%3D1...

Has anyone ever used Mona Lisa brand metal foils in between fused glass? I fired some of the Mona Lisa variegated red a while back. Full fused between 2 layers of BE clear. The only thing remaining after firing is a bunch of very tiny bubbles and a pale blue pattern where the leaf was and sone blac...

Another test, slide your fingers over the glass surface quickly like you're sanding wood.

The irid side will make a sound like sanding (if your hands are dry and rough) the non irid side will be almost silent.

Ron again

I just looked at a sample of BE clear irid. Run your fingers over the glass and feel for a texture, the smoothest side has the irid coating. The non irid side will have a slight pebble finish.

Ron

I think I would take my chances in a regular annealed chair. One little scratch in a tempered chair and you would be on the ground.

If the glass is thick enough there is no need to temper.

Ron

Only flat glass can be tempered. Anything that has been slumped will not survive the tempering process because of uneven heating and cooling. If you piece will hold water and you keep it outside don't let it freeze with water in it. If it's a table top or something that will drain all rainwater, it ...