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Nix the cookie sheet and BN. Work directly on a freshly kiln washed shelf. Some people place the glass on fiber paper (not thin fire), but I do not care for the resulting texture. Wear only all natural fiber clothing ( cotton, wool, etc.), closed toed shoes and long pants. Don't scrimp on choosing a...

Certainly safety is of primary concern to me. This rake was designed specifically for me, my kiln and my working environment.

It's just beautiful, Haydo. I am so impressed by your bubble blocks. The movement is visually very compelling. What a lovely and generous gift for your friend.

Sharol

KaCe -

Here's a photo of my primary raking/combing tool. As you can see it has just one tip. It's about 34.5" from stem to stern and is made from stainless steel rod and tube.

Sharol

Thank you, Leslie. Yes, I've worked with both in my combings. I particularly like the reactive Cloud, as the reaction seems to be more consistent than the Reactive Ice. Actually, I'm laying a piece up now that will incorporate both along with Lt Aquamarine. Hopefully it will go well and become part ...

Thanks everyone for the encouraging comments! You stir up my energy!

Sharol

My goodness, Havi! What a lovely thing to say. You warm the cockles of my soul Thank you!

Sharol

Thank you! I used Lt Cyan, French Vanilla and Dense White. The crackle and strip construction are Dense White. Both combings were done at 1675 degrees, about 30 degrees hotter than I usually go. It was interesting to see how the reactions in different portions of the composition intensified (or not!...

I'm revisiting combing, this time exploring how reactive glass behaves at higher temperatures. Both sides were combed and then sandblasted before slumping. This piece is 15.5" in diameter and about 3" deep. I apologize for the photos not being of better quality, but my photo gear is packed...

Hi Patty. I had a pin drop into a combing once. It hadn't sunk too far into the glass and I was able to successfully drill it out. It was a last ditch effort to save a piece I had invested many hours in and otherwise would have tossed as a total loss. I used a Dremel with a fine bit and lots of wate...

Haydo,

The individual elements of this piece are absolutely amazing! I am fascinatied by the entire composition as well. I am so impressed by your work. It evokes a long road of experimentation and reflection.

Congratulations!

Sharol

Shawn,

These are really great! I especially appreciate the way you work with the glass' inherent tendancy to pull up. Very cool and showcases your craftmanship and attention to detail. I like them both very much.

Keep going with this series!

Sharol

30 minutes is a good long soak, but I'd try increasing your heat to 718 to 730 cent. and holding for 15 minutes or so. Does your controller allow you to change temp and length of hold while firing? Will you be able to look into the kiln when it hits top temp? If so, have a look at the lower temp. to...

I was curious about the holds you used in the prior firings to understand better what total heat work you had been getting up until now. Also, how thick is the whole piece?

Havi,

If you want it flat, I don't think you would have a problem taking it all the way to 1325 (718). How long are you holding at top temp now?

Sharol

Hi Havi.

I believe Colour De Verre (the casting mould folks) suggest 680 cent. for tack fusing fine frit.

Sharol

It depends on the mould and your top firing temperature. I routinely get 2 or 3 slump firings from one application on most moulds. Inspect the mould for nicks or areas where the MR97 may have been abraded off though before committing to reusing it.

Sharol

You should be able to get many firings from a good coating, especially with the shallower moulds.

It depends upon the temperature your slumping at, the shape of the mould and how well you protect the mould surface from damage while not in use. A well cared for, kiln-washed mould can handle many firings. There's no absolute number. Just inspect the surface for imperfections before each use and fi...

Hi Havi, I've had good luck using reactives in melts by thoughtfully layering clear around the reactives and also placing the reactives some distance from each other. This helps limit the mixing of the glasses. This works best with wire melts rather than pot melts. By somewhat isolating/containing t...