WarmGlass.com

1/4" should be fine since you are draping over. Cut a piece of cloth (like a sheet or towel) the size of the glass you will use and let that drape over your mold to get an idea of what the finished product will look like. R.

The fact that they have no bottom means that yes they are vented. Air can escape between the mold and the shelf. If it will not hold water it will not hold air. R.

Like he said but you can try rinsing with distilled water after cleaning, never using windex and venting the kiln to 1100 f during the firing. Since it is an intermittant problem this might cure. R.

The holes are to allow air to escape. Not heat. R.

It will make the lines more visable. Especially borax. I have never seen a strip piece in person that had no lines. R.

I do not see the need to baffle. Slowing down takes care of that for me.

The vari etch frosted surface firepolishes nicely. I use a respirator and ventillation when I use it. The fumes will burn your throat and eyes if you are not careful. R.

Huh. It that works hf etching cream like vari etch from his glass might work. R.

The devit was probably from burning out the binders in the fiber paper. To avoid that I vent the kiln up to 1100 f and usually hold there for 20 min or so. This hold just seems to make the glass happier. Venting is huge. R.

Ñevermind. Re read the etched label. Safety not tempered. R.

What to do when tempered glass is not tempered? The glass in the salon door of a new yacht I am working on has a crack across one corner. We buy only tempered glass for these boats. There is an etched tempered stamp on this piece of glass. Obviously the glass was not tempered even though we payed ex...

Thank you Bert. Yesterday I run one sample in a small kiln and ,yes, I need go hotter. I'll try 1420 with 40 m hold. Why tin side down? A lot of sources recommend tin up to avoid devitrification. What do you mean that air side down will make it rough? Sorry for questions, but I will run my kiln tod...

I would anneals a little extra because of using the floor. R.

like they said there is an oxide coating formed on the element the first time it is fired. it stays there untill there is a reducing atmosphere in the kiln. then the next time the kiln is fired the oxide forms again. this can eventually wear the element thin. if you want to do some reducing stuff , ...

the fiber paper cushions the metal insert from the glass. it is soft and allows wiggle room for removing the form. yes stainless contracts more than glass on cool down but in reality it helps to have that cushion there. R.

Probably. The Fritz might ball up before the other glass touches dowm though

Get the alumina.

You will also need to put more fiber around the metal insert so that the glass does not grab it on cool down.

also check that in all of the re doing of the lid the thermocouple is still in the right position. if it got shoved out, the controller will cause the kiln to over fire. r.

cool.