WarmGlass.com

Not sure who actually makes the Evenheat Rampmaster, but I have a stand-alone which can do all the things you want. It's been totally reliable for several years. What I like its that's it's wall-mounted, so I don't have to crouch down to program it (I don't crouch s well any more) and I can read it ...

The link says it's under construction...so we'll have to wait for your report!

Most places which carry fusing supplies will have nichrome wire; pottery supply stores also carry it. I have used 16g copper wire for bottles...twist 2 pieces together (Morton has a handy inexpensive tool for this, or you can use a variable speed drill and a vise) and it will be strong and attractiv...

I checked the Glasshopper website (www.glasshopperpatterns.com). Their dichro slide instructions say it works well uncapped, and they recommend using your "usual fusing" schedule. I suspect it needs to be fired up into the fusing range rather than just a firepolish.

Stephen, is that like the "elevator butt" response we get when we scratch the cat's back at the base of the tail?

Wish I could go to one of those. I think there are sufficient instructions in his book, but how much better it would be to do one in a class! One of these days...

You can also try firing it dichro side down; that's one of the suggestions Monty gave me, and it worked.

When you pre-fire the rocks, it's a good idea to put them under a stainless steel bowl...just in case they do explode, it will be contained.

I bought a new motor from Glastar for my Superstar; my husband replaced it; works great! The motors of Glastar and Inland are not universal. I didn't mean that. I just meant to give an example of a replacement motor working well (and it was pretty easy to install, also). I expect replacing an Inlan...

I bought a new motor from Glastar for my Superstar; my husband replaced it; works great!

Yeah, what they said!

OK, I "collected" you!

You could start off with a Hot Head torch and Mapp gas. Then get a more sophisticated set-up if you decide you like torchworking.

What kind of spray are you talking about? Remember, boron nitride is for stainless steel, not ceramic. If your mold is ceramic, you might try Primo Primer. It can be brushed or sprayed, and is easily removed after firing so detail doesn't get clogged up.

I've noticed that some opals, when full-fused, seem to show a different color on the top than along the flattened-out edges. Not devit,just a slight color difference.

Since no one has been able to identify what went on, I think I'd wear a respirator when cleaning the kiln, just to be safe.

I'd suggest you contact CBS tomorrow. It may be that you had some defective glass (it happened to me once).

It didn't show on mine, either, but I clicked on his website icon and got to see a bunch of really cool pieces!

Gorgeous piece, Bob.