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I love r and r. rarely any fissures. I used it for a 38" viking long ship, and for a long cast glass chain. I will try and add a photo or two

What does your contract state? Whenever I get a new client I draw up a contract so no one is surprised. Your time is valuable and some deposit should always be listed as non refundable

my experience with all the coatings was mixed. The lower temperatures worked better. Full fuse and higher not so good. Kiln wash the best. I started just stripping and recoating in the kiln.

The best way would be to make a mold of the shape you want. That would save a lot of cutting. Then after casting the cold working begins. It is easier to polish if the shape is established

The single phase from three phase is no problem. In three phase there are 3 hot legs. This takes a 3 space breaker. By putting a single phase 240 volt double pole breaker in, that solves that problem. I had a studio with the same issues. You have to play around with it as it will take longer, and hi...

Depends on the glass, investment etc. R and R has great release properties and leaves a nice satin edge. Obviously with investments it will never be polished, but the right investment and glass makes a difference. Gaffer casting is excellent to use

Also, hxtal has a possiblity of failing when it is that old. Loctite hysol 30cl is a good two part crystal clear adhesive

I use stand offs all the time. Some I have drilled, but most I adapt the standoffs with a set screw, glue the cap to the back of the glass and install. I will try and add a photo.

Brad is right, and remember it is not just the annealing for hours, but the cool down is critical. A lot more stress is added with uneven thicknesss.

always get the largest you can as needs change. if you are going to keep for a long time, I recommend a bridge or rail saw. They have the work staying stationary and the blade on top moving. The problem with standard tile saws is that all the water runs down on the platform and wheels that slide und...

after you get it back make sure and clean very well with alcohol as they will probably have minute bits of metal from all the metal they blast

the big thing everybody overlooks is uneven thickness. You always have to allow more time than the thickest part. When there is a differential between the thicknesses you can thermal shock it.

There is a learning curve for sandblasting and especially rayzist. I have used it a lot. Also depends on what you are blasting, how deep you are carving, how much detail etc. The 3mm is good for frosting and a little carving. 5mm is better for depth. Sandblasting is a function of pressure and grit. ...

That is assuming it is a real gallery, with trained staff. Lots of places use gallery in their name, but they are really a store, with retail clerks.. My friend found out the hard way, when someone bumped a shelf, and his platter fell over. He found out real quick they were a store as they charged h...

I don't trust e6000 as I have had some failures. Loctite h30cl hysol works great and stays crystal clear.

You can use pre made plaster traps such as dentists use. In my studio I had large tubs under each piece of equipment, with an outgoing drain line near the top. All the sediment sinks to the bottom. I let it get about 3/4 full, then settle overnight. I then use a small fountain style pump hung in the...

I can agree with Marty, although most people I have seen using coatings do not disclose or otherwise include a care and use, or recoating instructions. for my part I do not think most collectors would want to deal with that either. Just seems that if you can achieve a good luck and feel by coldworki...

If it is not archival, do not use. I deal with this all the time at Pilchuck with people in too big of a hurry. Want to blast, coat, and be done. The current hot thing is Thompson's water seal. If you are a hobbyist, or just want to experiment, or sell cheap stuff, then ok. If you are serious about ...

Thanks Brad and Rick. I too, mourned selling my kiln when I had to close up the studio. If I had had any money I would have put it in storage. Oh well. Not too worried, but always good to get some other views. I figured the board would be a lot easier, but see so many with blanket, I had to wonder i...

I think I am resigned to building a kiln. Several questions. I know I want a brick bottom, but have seen and used kilns with a mix of fiber and brick above. I know the benefits of each, as to quick heating and cooling or retention, but what are your ideas for the best meet in the middle? Brick sides...