WarmGlass.com

Anyone have one of these? Remarks?
I need another large kiln......

Don't expect good results from something that is not real dichroic glass.

I have a wok listed on our site under odds and ends....we have been doing a reorg and major studio clean out and have goodies from it for sale. I used to make sinks but not these days.
Just one large one listed.

Just can't imagine getting a true circle that way.......am I missing something?

Too hot......try a little lower with that hold. Try 1460 with a 30 min hold. We do not reapply kiln wash for every full fuse......only after it starts to break down after 3-4 firings.
Just my thoughts!

Hard to picture.....do you happen to have a picture before and after original slump of strips?

Glue is only good for moving work to the kiln....once in the kiln if your lay up is such.....when the glue burns off (at around 500 degrees) your elements will slide or move. You cannot count on glue to hold something that would naturally move with out it. Hope that makes sense......need coffee........

I love using float to teach students on.......we always have alot on hand to start with then into the trash it goes......then the real fun begins. I would hate to have them learning on Bullseye!

I think you need to slow down after anneal also.....I think I would go

anneal
100 hr to 800 and hold 60 min
100 hr to 700 no hold

since we have the same kiln ........so sorry you are still having these issues......
I do occasionally fire large that come to 1" of the fiber walls.

sometimes in a pot melt you can have coe shift....... when you pulled it out of the fuse was it totally cool? your cool to 900 does not look like a problem to me..... If it is a "tac fuse" with varying thickness that is probably the problem. Add more anneal for a piece like that......pictu...

Why $50,000..... Seems extreme to me!

You could do it that way Jerry.....but for me I like a defined line for the rim like in this pic. If I had fired the pot melt with black frit around it the edge would have come out less even around the orange center.....does that make sense.....? You would also have to cold work the edge to do a slu...

Tested using coe96 clear over regular spectrum using a filter to view. Some had obvious halos.....obvious which had problems. I am talking transparents here of course.

Try Pacific Art Glass.....I do not know if they do this but they do have classes.......and kilns.....

Another simpler way to do this is to put down 2 full circles of your large glass circles......one color with a clear on top or what ever combo you want and just place your clean combed piece in the center. It does make for a heavy piece but when doing a rim... if the fit is off a little bit it can h...

I was thinking more of the problems of 2 layers fusing and slumping at the same time. For me it has alwaysncaused bubbles which i hate....... One layer with designing and frit work is not a real problem in a shallow mold like Morganica said. Using 1/4 thick glass is the way to go if at all.

I have tried in the past but was never happy with the results.

I would clean up the raked piece till perfect.....lay it on a disk of clear the size of the finished piece then add a rim of the rim color......fire it slow on the heat up. I fire something like that at 100 degrees/hr to 800 and then up.....
Patty does have a tutorial on making rims......

I would call patagon with this question.......

I disagree....i have bought out a few glass buisnesses over then years that have gone under and ended up with quite a bit of nonfusable spectrum. Because of that we did alot of testing........We found that around 80% of it is fusable to 96 clear without stress although it is very devit prone. You ca...