WarmGlass.com

Cynthia, You're way ahead of me in the sophistication of your work and your technical knowledge! I don't think I'll ever achieve that level of complexity. Someone else contacted me privately and told me to check out Home Depot for acetone. I'll certainly do that, although I will say I haven't notice...

I never use super glue, or any other glue for that matter, for "structural" purposes. It's just there to hold small surface decorations in position until I can put them in the kiln. And even then, I use something the size of a pin head in as unobtrusive a place as I can. I buy my acetone b...

I used the Scotch brand gel super glue in the single use tubes. This was the first - and last - time I'll use it. I currently have some pieces waiting to be fired that I put together with Scotch brand liquid super glue before this disaster so I'm hoping that the problem is only with the gel and not ...

I've just taken the things I used the gel super glue on out of the kiln. What a disaster that stuff is! The good news is that there is no sign of the original smear that I was concerned about, and which I removed with acetone. The bad news is that all the noodles I glued on with the gel puckered up ...

Susan and Laurie, Many thanks for your responses. The gel super glue is, indeed, nasty stuff and I won't forget this lesson quickly! I did a bit of on-line research and most information I read suggested using acteone, or boiling water, so I rubbed the smudge with a q-tip soaked in acetone and rubbed...

I just glued a couple of black noodles as part of a decoration to the surface of a Bullseye rainbow iridescent plate I plan to fuse. I used a gel superglue and unfortunately I moved one of the noodles a bit and the glue smeared. Now the glue is showing on the surface of the plate. Will it burn off c...

Jennifer, the Universal stuff does work but use with caution. I have had several pieces with the solution embedded in the contact surface of the glass. Instructions say that will wash away but it does not always. I wrote to BL about the temperature parameters thinking I had fired too hot or long; re...

Boyce Lundstrom sells a product called Universal Mold Coat that he says can be used on stainless steel moulds as well as glazed ceramic ones. It comes as a powder and is mixed with latex paint and water. See: <http://www.boycelundstrom.com/products/universal-mold-coat-8oz> I haven't used it yet so I...

I, too, bought a pair and found them very difficult to use. Like you, I had to squeeze far too hard but had no success with lighter pressure. They sit in the back of a drawer doing nothing, while I use a pair of inexpensive running pliers.
Jennifer

Laurie Spray wrote:Rose.......not fused of course.....1250 for a slump

Jennifer
Just experiment and keep good notes..... Be sure to put in a good bubble squeeze.

Thanks Laurie,
I'll be sure to try it out.
Jennifer

Many thanks Laurie. Do you fuse as well as slump in a multi-shelf kiln? If so, what would your schedule be for that?
Jennifer

Laurie and Rosanna, I know that all kilns are different and each one requires testing to determine its proper firing schedule, but would either or both of you be willing to share your schedules for fusing 2 layers of 3mm Coe 90 glass and for slumping the results of that firing? I have a 7 cu ft L&am...

Mainly Tekta Crystal Clear or Bullseye Clear, 1401 I think? Thanks. There's a Crystal Clear Tekta that's 1401-0380 and a Crystal Clear that's not Tekta that's 1401-0030. There's also a Clear Transparent Tekta that's 1100-0030 (I think) and a Clear Transparent non-Tekta that's 1101-0030. I may test ...

The clear layer is there for several reasons. Firstly, I like to build on a clear base, it's just easier. If you don't, and have to adjust your PB pieces as you often do, they could pick up KW between the slices. Clear is less prone to sticking to KW than opalescent colors. Also, I flip and fire my...

Brock wrote:Nope. You need 2 border layers to cover the butt joints, otherwise you can see them easily.

Oh yes! Of course! That smacking sound you hear is the heel of my hand hitting my forehead!! Thanks again.

Jennifer

Okay . . . make the PB. Then arrange, border, dam (with fiber paper) and fire face down on a clear base. Anneal, roughly cold work, dam (without fiber paper) and full fuse. * Anneal, cold work and slump. Sell and retire . . . * At this stage I used 1/16" plastic spacers (which I remove before ...

I've all but eliminated using Thinfire because of the scummy haze on Tekta, and have seen improvements. My issues only started with my Tekta use. Bullseye continues to blame cleaning techniques but I don't have the problem with any glass besides Tekta, and I clean all my glass in the same manner. I...

Some people get the hazing with fiber paper (not just thinfire, and not just Tekta), some don't. I get the hazing with fiber paper, don't particularly care since I almost always coldwork the piece pretty extensively either going into the final firing or after I'm done. It may also have something to...

Thanks Brock, Now can I ask why you dam the piece when you firepolish it? I wouldn't have thought it would move enough at FP temperatures to require damming. When the first fusing is successful, I usually just coldwork the edges up to 400 grit on the wet belt sander and then fire polish flat on the...

Thanks Brock, Now can I ask why you dam the piece when you firepolish it? I wouldn't have thought it would move enough at FP temperatures to require damming. When the first fusing is successful, I usually just coldwork the edges up to 400 grit on the wet belt sander and then fire polish flat on the ...