WarmGlass.com

Not everything can be encased in glass. Perhaps this is a case for acrylic?

I'm glad Greg was albe to reassure you that the dust is not dangerous.
But it does let you know that a different method of removing excess powdered glass is required. One method is this one:
http://glasstips.blogspot.co.uk/2011/01 ... crisp.html

I am new to this and just bought a new Paragon Fusion 16 glass firing kiln. I did one firing so far with yough glass and learned a few things. I was amazed at the total time the firing took am am wondering about my electric bill. Next, I want to have a wine bottle slump firing. I don't have molds s...

"Like many newcomers to kiln forming I have spent a fair amount of time with stained glass, small to large projects, have tables, hand tools, grinders, saws, etc. My Father got me started and between the two of us we have accumulated a lot of stained glass stock, hundreds and hundreds of pounds...

Do you have polarised filters to observe what stress remains in your pieces? That is one way of avoiding the wait to see if it will stand up over time.

Enamels will give colour. However, they are not cheap. Not much in kiln forming is.

Unless you are slumping float 710C is a bit hot

My understanding is that silica sticks to glass. Not sure if it will work as face coat, but others will know.

You need a separator to keep the glass from sticking to the mould unless you fire at very low temperatures for very long times. A separator needs to be in good condition to provide a good product. As batt/kiln/shelf wash does not change its chemical composition below about 700C (causing it to stick ...

It occurs to me that if the plates are going to be washed frequently, the fingerprints will be removed every time they are used. If they are not going to be handled, then there won't be finger prints anyway.

I would prefer that cool from 960F to 850F to be at a rate of 45F/hr (achieves the same time) to ensure all of the glass is cooling evenly. I agree on a further cooling segment too, although I might go as low as 400F at only 90F/hr. You need to consider the additional thickness that most combings ha...

And you could consider a long bubble squeeze in the 650C - 677C range to assist the powder to settle.

Cynthia's blog on glass work is here
http://www.morganica.com/bloggery/category/glasswork/

Look at Cynthia Morgan's blog (Morganica) for reliable simple method of making a mesh for melting through

Hi April.
I didn't know you were doing fusing now too.
Steve

Here is a table from Kirwan that might be useful
http://glasstips.blogspot.co.uk/2010/07 ... fetre.html

An angle jig on a flat lap

.......... I didn't want to have glass explod in my kiln so I only fired to 1650 and not the 1700 that some fire to. I didn't want to ruin my kiln shelf because of the high heat. What would you all suggest for my next try. Thermal shocking the glass is not possible after about 580C, as the glass is...

To answer your question - 900C should be enough for the creation and collapse of bubbles. the time you soak at top temperature is up to your observation.
How hard this temp will be on your elements is open to debate.

............ 1. Does this mean that one shelf has been used and fired and I can safely use it? Who knows? but you can fire them, which might make them accept kiln wash more easily. Usually the place where the kiln wash appears to lack adhesion is a more dense part of the shelf. 2. What are they lik...