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Cheryl makes a good point about being careful around quartz inversion temperatures to protect your pot. I've never split one but have made a mess of the interior of the kiln by trying to reload a hot pot. If you miss, the molten glass eats the brick. The fiber paper is valuable to avoid that.

Karuna, if you don't need many, I have about a dozen left over from the original order by Barbara. Contact me if you need them urgently.

I started to feel kinda foolish and pulled it out to cool. I'll sandblast it instead. Would really like to know how it holds up in real heat so I may have my husband drag the smaller kiln outside tonight. Am really curious as to how dense the plating really is (IF it's chrome). In regular zinc-galva...

I have a found object I want to use as a mold. I'm about 99% sure it's chrome because it's so shiny. Having learned my lesson about firing unknown metals inside the building, this one is on a hot grill outside. It's a gas grill and the temp gauge reads about 600. It has been in there for an hour and...

If the hole in the kiln bottom or board is too narrow, the glass will exit the pot and stick to the side of the hole, capturing debris as it goes. If it's too big, the glass at the exit hole of the pot stays too cool - then I use a MAPP torch to get it flowing again. You can also use a layer of thic...

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Karen, when we lost our Dixie Dawg last year I didn't have time to do anything of a personal nature, like imprint her paws. Later I took a double layer of pretty glass and cut the letters of her name in fiber-paper and kiln-carved her memorial. You could kiln-carve paw prints along with that. I sili...

David I use steel containment rings (squares and round shapes) lined with fibe paper. Just pile in the glass and fire as you would an open faced mold, including the anneal for thicker work. You can lay the scrap in neatly for a design but I like to pile high in the center and let the colors blend an...

Stack it with other trans colors and high-fire it down to make garden stepping stones. I've even tossed in my irids to the soup to make 3/4 to 1 1 /4 inch stepping stones for the patio. Truthfully it's the only left-over project I have found for Tekta. Bits fire kinda skunky but for land-scaping you...

Does anyone have experience with this tool? http://www.bluefiremolds.com/frit-maker/Glass-Eater.php

I find myself wasting a lot of time lately making small batches of quenched and fritted glass. Could use a shortcut.

Hi Faye, what is the reaction the glass has to the borax overglaze. Bob Bob, There is no 'reaction' with the glass as far as color. It's just a surface treatment which prevents devit and makes the surface shiny - and it's cheaper than other devit sprays. I admit I have only used it when melting bott...

From WGB: DEVIT SPRAY (Borax/water solution) Purpose: To prevent or minimize devitrification How to use: Spray or brush lightly on top surface of glass prior to slump firing. Ingredients: 1 teaspoon borax to one cup water. Distilled water works best. Regular borax cleaning powder (such as the "...

Tidy up your kiln shelf with a fresh coat of KW. I use an air-brush to apply KW if it's really critical. If the shelf is small enough to manipulate, pour a glass of water over the freshly kiln washed surface to level out brush strokes. I pour and then quickly dump the excess off. Sandblast and firep...

350 to 1050 - hold 15
150 to 1275 - hold 15
400 to 1450 - hold 15
Have done 15 inch rounds using this exact same glass and it is flawless in a Pearl-22

Thanks all. I lost my notes from Milon's class but a friend retrieved the info. Molds are made - alll looks good.

Can someone help me work out determining the amount of mold plaster to mix up? I have shallow open-faced molds to build, each measuring 9x12x2 inches deep. I am using R&R 101 and know the proportions of mix to water - I'd like to know what finished volume of mixture to shoot for. In the past I j...

I'm actually interested in the plasterdrawing bit not just as a painting medium, but also for the embossing effect--it's a way for me to achieve dimension, texture and color at the same time. Typically I cast the plaster over a clay positive, but drawing into a block of plaster would be a lot more ...

Lauri, if I understand correctly, you are scratching/carving into plaster and then filling the grooves with powders to define the drawing? I assume you lay over a solid sheet once the drawing is established; or do you cover with coarser frits? A number of years ago I purchased a quarter of sheetrock...

Jim is most likely right - the edges sealed. That long schedule is overkill on black glass. It turned to mush. Shorten your 45 minute holds to 20 - skip the 100 dph after reaching 1240. After the blank soaks at 1240, you are well past the strain point and can go at 400dph to process temp.

If it were layer on layer, I know you'd slow the schedule btween 1050-ish to 1250-ish. Here i'ts not like you are sealing off the edges and trapping bubbles but I'm thinking you are going to get some big ones anyway. Can you ramp up higher and then drop back to a hold at 1500-ish to dissipate bubble...