WarmGlass.com

I always thought I needed 2 hotboxes (hotboxii?) so have been waiting. And, for the record, Kevin at Vitrum developed a way cool bracket method of putting the vit. kiln on the wall - cheaper than stepladders and easier on the back & knees!! And cement board on the floor works great too. off to H...

the picture of Chip on the back cover. Yay, Chip!!!

(So I'm showing my colleagues at work, and they say: DON'T tell us we're going to see a naked picture of YOU!!) hmm.

I had ordered 2, planning to put one up in my office. Does anyone have (handy) a copy of sexual harassment workplace guidelines? Something about a hostile environment... Y'all are lucky I didn't flash skin. Heck, my cat refused to go NEAR the picture, tame as it is!!! (Doesn't everyone coldwork in h...

I've been trying to do a poor substitute for vitreograph (gotta get a setup!) by heating flowerpots full of glass shards to about 1750, holding for a while, and then removing the pots from the kiln to pour out the glass. Only the glass...doesn't pour. It cools way too fast. How hot do I need to go? ...

(except for my own picture - yuk! who needs to diet, eh???) Dani, I can see you're taking your work to new heights And is it just me, or does Doug look like Tony's cousin? And Brock, I hardly recognized you without your...hawaiian shirt...

Once I learn to weld, that's first on my list (unless your son needs a new project..?)

Congrats on the publicity! AND they spelled your name right!!

I bought some fine-tipped enamel pens in a variety of colors. Not only do they go on very fine, but they disappear entirely when fired to 1350. Anyone else had any luck? I'd love to find them in a wider tip, too.

buy the book. it's worth it.

Found this link: http://www.artcastingjournal.com/foundries.htm

I actually just called one of the places in MD and they gave me another place in B'more that does sell olivine sand. Some days it's great to live in an industrial town! (Other days...)

does that all the time (except it doesn't blow the breaker). I think it's a faulty switch - probably a short or something. In my case, if I back off of the glass and give it a few seconds, it comes back to life. Or I jiggle the switch. If you call someone like a DeWalt or Grainger, they'll know. PS:...

Meera, you don't say what kind of firing schedule you're using, or the size of the pot relative to the size of the kiln, but here are a few general tips: 1. flower pots should come from Germany or Italy (as opposed to Mexico). Usually they're stamped on the bottom or side. Don't ask why, these just ...

The purpose of the fuse was to tack elements onto these large pieces, hence the low temp. It was just a straight fuse, no slump. (Turns out I didn't really go hot enough to get the pieces to stick anyway.) The elements would make some rather radical differences in thickness - but the elements are no...

The cracks in both pieces occurred in large expanses of clear with various colored inclusions. In one case, the glass separated entirely. In the other, the crack (which is quite jagged) is there but the glass is together.

I've been working under the (apparently mistaken) assumption that glass was no longer susceptible to thermal shock above about 1,000 degrees. I just re-fired a piece (about 1/2 inch thick, 1.5 x 1 foot, multiple colors, with tack fused elements) with the following, 88-hour schedule, only to find a T...

if there are rough spots, use a fine-grained sandpaper (don't know the italian equivalent) to smooth it. You want a very smooth surface.

Gil Reynolds sells 90 COE "Gilli"fiore, but in my opinion, it's ugly. You can make your own, and Uroboros and Bullseye both sell a mold, but (again in my opinion) this is an unanswered market request.

BTW, Gil's site is Fusion Headquarters/HGH, link on this site.

I'm a fan of the "For dummies" series. There's one out there for you.

I find that the more I work with glass, the less I really understand - and the more I need to know! For example, my current pieces are in the 1 foot by 2 foot range, and from 1/4 to 1/2 inch thick. That demands an immensely complex firing schedule - and they're each fired at least 4-5 times (and eac...

Let's just say that a friend handles a piece a little clumsily and an edge breaks off. How high does it have to be re-fired to totally erase the join? Or is that even possible?