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I place the shelves so that the edges are facing the bricks, above the coils. ...hopefully I am doing a good job and they won't explode in the future This thread is taking some interesting turns in topic. Seachange introduces two topics here that lead to an additional comment and a couple of questi...

Is there a warranty involved? Not using the provided stand might void some warranty. Calling the manufacturer for guidance would probably be prudent.

1/4" should be fine since you are draping over. Cut a piece of cloth (like a sheet or towel) the size of the glass you will use and let that drape over your mold to get an idea of what the finished product will look like. R. What a great tip. I'm sure I'm not the only person here who thanks yo...

The only other thing I plan on is to put fiber paper around the edges of the fiberboard to make sure I can get the fiberboard out of the finished piece. Joe The fiber paper may not be sufficiently thick to allow the mold to release from the glass; my experience is with tested glass rather than floa...

With your budget I don't think you have to settle (as the previous poster suggests) for a used or a kiln not properly set up for glass. You can get a 15" to 18" new with controller using 110V (regular plug in). This will give you a proper learning tool and give you enough flexibility to l...

Liz: Here's a post from another thread where I outlined my favorite books on fusing. These will help you immeasurably in fusing with understanding: Three books will get you a long, long way toward the knowledge and experience you want quickly: *Contemporary Fused Glass, Guide to Fusing, Slumping, an...

I will reign myself in and start out with a simple two layer design. I must learn to crawl before I run, lol. I have so much to learn about this process and I really appreciate all the feedback. Three books will get you a long, long way toward the knowledge and experience you want quickly: * Contem...

It's difficult to always anticipate how a piece will be finished but I try to do as much cold work as possible before and during fusing i.e. finishing glass edges after cutting and before the initial firing, shaping/finishing after initial firing and before fire polish/slumping, etc. This includes d...

I have a Skutt Hotstart, and the element is in the lid and isn't enclosed. The pins loosen every time I fire and the element jiggles around some; brick dust falls into the chamber (luckily it seems to happen after the glass has re-solidified). Question: is there something I can do to enclose the el...

Jerrwel, I don't think Stone's tables are too conservative but it's a matter of degree (heh-heh). The amount of variability in thickness, relative to the size of the piece, as well as the overall symmetry, are important. In this case, we've got two circles--the most stable flat layup--and at no poi...

I downloaded this project from a very popular glass website: Use a 3mm 12" clear system 96 circle, then place a 3mm 9" transparent colored circle in the center. Full fuse using following schedule: 250 250 30 250 1050 60 200 1250 30 250 1370 20 300 1465 10 Full 950 60 200 800 10 300 100 0 ...

Larry Lunsford wrote:
The bottom layer is black with gold irid. Top layer is clear. Design in dichroic is in middle.

Not really certain..is this a 2-layer design with significant decoration elements or a 3 layer design >1/4 inch in depth? If so there will be movement as the glass will spread if not dammed.

There are some questions this thread raises for me: Why is 220V not a readily available alternative here? For all the money that's being spent on equipment, is an electrical upgrade to 220V in order to maximize the investment possible? I upgraded my primary service and ran a 220V line for <$2000 wit...

Bert Weiss wrote:Each has it's set of shit that happens when you do that.

I have been LMAO for days at this succinct summary of information from hundreds of books, articles and classes, and thousands upon thousands of posts. The sentence is too subtle for ROFLMAO.

Jerry

Metal bands used in firing? AC DC for classic mood, Soundgarden for punkish metal, but Dragonforce when I need some serious Dungeons and Dragons-themed speed metal. Honestly though, I tend to avoid metal when fusing and listen to Dylan, Kate Bush, Art of Noise and Boston. I will use stainless, but ...

I bought 2 of those metal bands that you tighten with a screwdriver from Ace, and they assured me that it was made entirely out of stainless steel. I'm planning on using them to hold a thin sheet of stainless steel in a round shape. I'm not going to fully melt the pieces of glass I'm putting inside...

Firing Schedules for Glass , Graham Stone's book available from Warmglass http://www.warmglass.org/books/books/126-fsg will help you create the right schedule for each project you create; no researching, no wondering, no worrying, no dithering. OK, maybe it's not a panacea but it's close. Page 33, ...

This style kiln is on my wish list. I am thinking the 16D would replace the need for the window and give additional functionality. Unless you think you will do beads, forgo the door. Voila! You just more than paid for the upgrade to 16D!

Most glass kilns max at 1700F. You can hold there quite a while, but 90 minutes is likely more than you need. You may get away with firing to 1650 for a pot melt, and I generally fire wire melts that low or lower anyway. If you use Spectrum glass, it will fire a bit lower than Bullseye. Contemporar...