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Dani: Yes, Tim teaches at Haystack a couple of times a year. Check out their website and class schedule. It is a drop dead gorgeous place to go. One of my best friends in Maine is featured in this month's Ornament magazine. She studied under Tim. From what she tells me, he is amazing - both as an ar...

Yeah, sure....now you all show up! Where were all you fusers when I lived in Maine and was the only act in town??? Seriously, Maine is a fabulous place. I moved there in my early 20's, and except for a hiatus to MA for a bit, spent most of my life in that state. My son was born there and still lives...

Congratulations Phil! What a great article!!!!! Thank you for the mention too...I'm truly touched. You've done such amazing (fused glass) work in the past few years, and now this monster kiln!!!! It looks fabulous. You're definitely a man of many talents and great vision. Hope to see you sometime in...

Hi Claudia: Keep trying - I'm sure Dymax can help you. If not, call Dewey Assoc - 1-800-448-2306 in NY. This is where I purchase my glue. Don't forget, Dymax has a shelf life. About 1 year and then the activator doesn't work. Good luck with the grant. I'll look forward to seeing you in June. Avery

Hey Caludia:

What do you want to glue? Dymax makes a number of glues. I'm only familiar with the one made for metal to glass, which is what I use for jewelry findings.

Avery

Get some aluminum oxide, but not 50 grit, it is way too coarse for using with photobrasive. I'd suggest 150 or 180.

Avery

My deepest sympathy Jon, to you and your family. Frances and Michael were inspirations to many of us. I was honored to have met Frances and visit the studio. She will be missed.

Avery

I have only used it by brushing on a layer, letting it dry, and then brushing on another layer. continue until achieving desired thickness. Less cracking this way, less waste. It is pricy stuff as you pointed out.[/quote] I took a class from the Twins at Pilchuck, and this was how they instructed it...

Avery -- which PhotoBrasive film do you use?[/quote] Hi Paul: I use Ultra Pro film - when teaching I use the 5 ml, and for personal use the 3 ml. The 3 ml is a bit more difficult to work with, but it can produce the tinest lines possible. PhotoBrasive has many new films out that I have not experimen...

Hi Paul: I agree with most everything that Tony has said, but he and I will always agree to disagree on the different manufacturers. I like PhotoBrasive products a whole lot better than Rayzist. I tried Rayzist many years ago, and was not happy with the way the film behaved. They may have made chang...

You can paint it on - mix with Klyr Fire or acrylic water based medium. You can sponge it on, stipple it, etc. It won't sift. However, if you want a nice even coating, using an airbrush is the best way to go. If you want to encase the micas, fire first on top of the glass and then encase in a subseq...

David: Thanks for sharing and for your insight. I'm guessing we'll not reach a real conclusion or answer because of the variables you have mentioned, sigh. This is difficult as I'm not happy about unpredictable results. I'm resigning myself to just keeping accurate notes on every firing using irid d...

[quote="Becca"]I've been following this thread with great interest. In a few days when my maglesses are done, I'll be firing a blank of BE silver irid on black. Much of the silver will be etched off later, but if those pits happen...... :evil: Hi Becca. Ron Coleman is the only person, to m...

I agree with David on collectively to trying to get to the bottom of this problem. My entire body of work, that I have spent years developing, is based on using the irid side down. It is unnerving that I will have to worry about each piece "making it" through the various firings. Yet, it m...

I wonder what Avery has been doing right all this time that she just now encountered the problem. I would sure like to beat this problem. Hi David: With the only variable being the thin fire, that's my guess as to the culprit as well as what Bullseye has determined. Although, I find Tony's recommen...

My apologies.. I was mistaken about the glass I used being from a recent production run. It was manufactured in 2001, so it seems we can eliminate any recent changes in formulation. The only variable is the thin fire, so as Mary Kay has advised, I will be using kiln wash again.

Avery

I've been having this problem for the past year and it happens on kilnwash too. I've seen the problem with black irid and cobalt blue transparent irid, mostly on silver irid or silver areas of rainbow irid. My only solution is to only fire irid down on the shelf one time, any more than that and I g...

Thanks Mary Kay. I can add this to the above information I posted: --> After reading your message I went back and checked -- the piece uses both rainbow and silver (above I said only rainbow). The pitting is almost exclusively on the silver (consistent with your info above). --> I read some more ol...

Hi Mary Kay: I've never had this problem until this week! Fired black rainbow patterned irid, irid side down on thin fire. In the second firing (to 1400) it pitted all across the entire back of the piece - really bad. Can send the piece to R&D if they are interested. It is a concern because all ...

Fabulous piece Ron. So, when are you going to start teaching?

Avery