WarmGlass.com

It is an amazing piece.
Bob

Thanks Bert.
Bob

I ordered mine on Friday from fusion headquarters, cant wait to play around with it. Bert, do you have recommendations on where to by 3/8 float in the Boston area.
Bob

I have done it and it works fine, I am assuming you are talking about a gas fire pit. I usually bring the up glass to a full fuse first to round up the edges so you don't cut yourself every time you have to clean it.
Bob

Ron was an engineer, woodworker, glass artist and probably a few more avocations that I don't know about. From Columbus Ohio. He passed away early last year. He was a contributor to this board for years. If you search on a topic and find his opinion, its a keeper. Thanks Don, now I remember. I used...

They are all great but I really like the sailboat.
Bob

I was looking around for an expandable drum and found them for about $7500. I looked at cabbing machines but they are way to expensive for my needs, Has anyone made there own and are willing to share some info. Bob Hi Bob, This is probably way more info than you are looking for and no doubt beyond ...

Barry Kaiser wrote:HI Bob,
Just got back into town, so late to this party

I made mine with an arbor from Lortone (about $400) and a local motor from a motor shop($85).
very easy to do.
Drums and wheels added about 250.

Barry

Thanks Barry, I will look into that. How was your fishing trip.
Bob

@Bob: I have, so far, been unable to satisfactorily kiln wash a large diameter stainless ball mold I've got. I've tried heating, air-brushing, etc., but haven't found the proper combination of approaches yet. I'm wondering: a) What size grit do you sandblast with, and b) Once having sandblasted, ca...

Thanks Bert.
Bob

I use them all the time. Stainless is mostly used for draping but if the edges are not to steep you can use it for slumping. If you use it for slumping you will need the holes for the air to escape. I sandblast them to scuff them up and use four coats of kiln wash. the kiln wash lasts for many firin...

Thanks Al and Jeff, that's a lot of good info. You are both set up for more kiln carving than I need. What I am trying to set up for is basically to clean up the freshly cut edges before slumping. I think the extender rick mentioned above may work well on my grinder with water added for my needs.
Bob

I kiln carve 10mm float with an unconventional schedule. I fire, tin side down at 600 dph to 1365ºF and hold for one hour. The result is good resolution, no dimensional change, fire polished edges, and no devit. If 600 dph is too fast for your kiln, just slow down. The critical step is stopping at ...

I would like to try my first kiln carving with float glass and am looking for a good schedule, any recommendations would be appreciated.
Bob

Andrea, that is the wrong light, I use that one on my uv glue. Here is the light I use on float.
Bob

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_ss_i_ ... Caps%2C225

This is what I use and it works well, It's in the proper nm range. below is a link to it a Petco's.

http://www.petco.com/product/9031/Stink ... light.aspx

Thank you Rick, that's what I needed.
Bob

Sorry Rick, That was a typo, I meant $75.00. I am wondering if people have set up there own cabbing unit. I have a heavy duty dewalt grinder like the one in the picture below, I no longer use it and thought I could change the arbor and come up with some kind of design.
Bob

I was looking around for an expandable drum and found them for about $7500. I looked at cabbing machines but they are way to expensive for my needs, Has anyone made there own and are willing to share some info.
Bob

If the crack is where it will not be seen maybe you could drill small holes at the ends of the crack to stop them form spreading. I still would not sell it but it may buy you time to show it.
Bob