WarmGlass.com

So, I pack a load of low-fire clay for my students in the kiln, and then on a whim I tell my AP guys to go ahead and load their cast glass plaster mold projects in the kiln and we'll fire them all at once. I pull up the program, and go home. BUT... I forgot to program in an anneal for the glass. UGH...

I have always places as many molds in my kiln as possible. As long as you are an inch or so away from the walls/elements, you should be fine. If your molds are unusually thick or heavy, I would fire up slowly, like 150 degrees per hour.

Not a great example. It's about 10"x20" of glass mounted on white board. The L screws are left, right and bottom and not horribly noticeable.

I hate sharing my website because I got the pics screwed up. That said, Particle Acceleration is a good example.

http://www.juddmann.com/wp-content/uplo ... ration.jpg

So, you don't like it? You could Pot melt it, or take a hammer to it, crush to a variety of frit sized, pile it up on a shelf in different mounds, or as level as possible and fire. It'll have a swiss cheese look that will be an interesting effect to add to another bowl.

I paint on float with vitreous paints, then put 1/2" transparent plastic bumpers on the back of the glass, that way it floats above the board. I then mount it with L Screws on whiteboard. I buy all materials from Homo Depot. These are the bumpers: http://www.homedepot.com/p/OOK-1-2-in-Clear-Pla...

The glass will pick up whatever surface is on your mold. Fire polish will only work if the cast glass if relatively flat - because at polish temperatures the glass will start to droop, sag, etc. A lot of people say they hand polish cast glass, but girl that sounds like too much work. Better to embra...

I'm a high school art teacher. When we need extra supplies, I first ask my students, explaining if someone doesn't have the cash that it's no big deal. Those who can afford the supplies, I ask they bring enough for themselves and a little more to help out others. I almost always have enough. Almost.

Just fire it. If it's a success, you got a great slumped bottle. If it fails, it's just a bottle. Who cares? The etching will probably gloss over, BTW. That's what happens with Grey Goose bottles.

I'm not quite sure what you're asking in your question. In my large kiln, for 90 or 96 glass I fire around 1565 and I hold for around 20 minutes. My smaller kiln I fire 1550 and hold for 15 minutes. The smaller one seems to fire hotter, and the glass gets devitrified if I fire for longer.

1490? Uh... I guess so. I usually fire around 1565 in my large kiln, and 1550 in my small one. It depends on what you want and how hot your kiln actually fires. Sorry dude.

Did you buy the Fuse stuff sold at Hobby Lobby? If so, it's pretty crap-tastic. I have over-heated it and lost the dichro shine.

Really awesome.

Yes. Look into vitreous enamels. Not enamel paint you buy at Wal Mart. I have had great success using low fire pottery glaze I bought from a local glaze-it-yourself pottery shop. Many here mix their own enamels. I know... well I see the sponsor is no longer listed, but several of the board sponsors ...

Yeah, but that's not binding the paint to the glass forever. You can get a razor blade and scrape it off. If you're cool with that, then go for it.

No firing? Well, if you want to screen print paint to glass, sure. If you want to fire the stencil on the glass so it's there forever, you'll have to use vitreous enamels and fire. (Not trying to talk down to you, but not sure what you had in mind.)

I also bought a wok about 8 or 9 years ago. I don't do sinks, but I use it for platters and trays. To slump, I fire 1350 for float and 1265 or so for 90 or 96.

Are you firing too hot or too long? Just a thought.

You're getting devit on brown glass? I get it on blue occasionally. Are you sure you're cleaning the bottles thoroughly?

The Skutt is an awesome kiln. I've had it for... uh... since 2004 or '5 I think. No lid warp.