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If you are only going to fire polish temperatures (1260 for 5 to 10 min) you should not have to dam it.

Warren

See attached:
http://www.oregonlive.com/environment/i ... on_su.html

Warren

I recently did an 8" drop through a kiln shelf that I cut a 12" hole. The "ring" was coated with kiln wash and did not require the 1/16" fiber paper. I used the "rule" of 2 sheets for the first 4" and a layer for each additional 2" drop for a total of 1/2...

Havi,

Venting just means the lid open only about an inch, or if you have a peep hole(s) with a ceramic plug, leave the plug(s) out to the temperature given.

Warren

If your design pieces are only one layer thick you may not need the "bubble squeeze" from 1150 to 1250. Your 15 min. hold at 1150 is not necessary, but it wont hurt anything, just wasted time.

Warren

Bill, Put the solid piece of tekta on the bottom and there will be no air entrapment (bubbles.) On your schedule, there is no benefit to hold at 1000. You also skipped the anneal. The time at 950 is not the anneal. It is to equalize the temperature. The anneal occurs when you drop from 950 to 750 at...

Haydo,
A magnificent piece!
Warren

Bert,

If pure carbon, you are surely correct. If it is black rust it is another story. Just saying that I have never seen carbon from thin fire deposit on the glass, but I suppose it could.

Warren

I know that thinfire turns black around 800 f and goes back to white at higher temperatures. I never noticed it deposit on the glass.

Warren

Better find out what the black specks are and eliminate them. While they won't embed in the glass at 1100, they will at 1465.

Warren

Havi,

Probably not very much. What room temperature are you starting with and what would venting lower it to?

Warren

Hi Havi, Whether normal or not (which I think it is) those are the temperatures in your shop. My experience on a larger kiln (28" x 28" x 18") is to pull out the 2 peep hole plugs at about 250 f. After reaching 200 f I raise the top about an inch to allow for more rapid cooling. I wou...

Hi Havi, The thin glass is 1/16", half of 1/8". I would fire each layer separately to 1350 f. At that temperature the powders or wafers will thin out and fix to the base glass. Also, the glass will not shrink and get thicker. Then stack and fire with a full fuse using a bubble squeeze. If ...

Sharda,

Very, very nice work!

Warren

Brad,
I have been unable to find "Warm Glass Tips" on the new software. Is it available? I remember reading your tip on drop rings and can't find it now.

Thanks.

Warren

Years ago I had trouble slumping over arc shaped molds. The glass was resting on the mold in a way that there was only a fine line where the glass rested. I would get fractures on the centerline probably because the glass was a little cooler on that line. The outside (wings) started to bend before t...

Carol, I don't think your annealing temps are bad. It all depends on the shape of the mold. If your mold has 2 sharp angles as opposed to gentle slopes (such as strait up, strait across, strait down) the glass would be prevented from shrinking as it cools. It must be able to shrink or it will break ...

Art is in the eye of the beholder and probably the wrong interpretation but what I see in the piece because of the too obvious title, is a distraught palestinian at the top spilling blood in their tunnels with a swastika overpowering all. Rather nasty imagery imho. I''d be ashamed to show it as it ...

Thanks all, it worked. Drilled pilot hole near edge of circle with masonry bit. At Bert's suggestion I placed the shelf on a lazy susan to feed shelf into sabre saw masonry (diamond) blade. Finished with file. Slow, but perfect.

Warren

Thanks to all for your replies. I think I will try a masonry drill bit for the starter hole and see if I can get a masonry blade for my sabre saw which I am will to sacrifice if necessary. I couldn't find a water jet shop in Richmond. The closest was in Norfolk or near DC. Yes, it is to be a large s...