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I must have 20 pairs... my favorite are about 6" long with a 45degree bend on bottom inch, and they are "Closed "and you sqeeze to open. Don

How about grinding/polishing bottom edge absolutely flat then cast a clear rectangular base 1/2" or more in thickness then fasten with UV adhesive.. ?

Sounds like you have a program error in your controller.

Nice job Don.. I assume you used more than 1 firing eg: 1 for color, 1 for outline ??

Kids plasticene in the Kiln?? I hope your kidding! You have a bit of a learning curve to get these numbers cast. Your dam material must be thinner than the final cast glass in order to eliminate needles. It actually is very simple to accomplish what you wish but I think you need to expand your knowl...

Container says: Clear Glide wire pulling lubricant by IDEAL #31-388.. maybe you can find it online. When fire it left some texture. Don

I was able to get a watercolour look by mixing powder frit with "cable pull gel" (available at Home Depot) You wind up with a acrylic paint like consistency. Then apply to glass with brushes as if painting a watecolour . try it !!

17 years ago I had commercial grade floor tile (like used in Walmart etc) installed over the concrete base. It has stood up well, is easy to wet mop, and you can move stuff around without damage to floor. I initially used rubber mats in areas where I stand but I found they were a trip hazard.. I wil...

I like all the small detail... takes a lot more than a glance to really appreciate this work... well done!

Over many years I have fused numerous smaller thick ( 1",1 1/2", and 2") pieces. Dimensions 2"x 3" , 2 1/2 x 4" and on up to 5" x 20" . I have always used the Bullseye suggested schedule for these based on the smallest dimension of each piece.. My work often s...

Too much black for my taste (just my 2cents opinion)

I actually see a lot of darker cathedrals in your pile... they will dominate!!!

Just for your future knowledge... If you tried to fuse single thickness glass by butting edges together... they will actually pull away form each other at fusing temps... leaving gaps (holes) in the final piece.

If you have someone else do your firing (who gave you lessons) then you need to talk this all out with them! These results could be avoided if you gave your assembled work an surface coating (airbrush) with superspray before fuse firing. When you get your own kiln you'll have better control of handl...

You could accomplish what you describe using a UV adhesive,,, getting a UV bulb and UV glue is not expensive and certainly more permanent than other adhesives. You can buy beer glasses fairly cheap

You will soon feel very restricted/limited with a small 110 volt kiln! I would suggest you use an electric switching device to allow you to use the 220 dryer circuit for the new kiln (you just can't use dryer when your firing) then buy the biggest 220 kiln you can afford.

In order to get a nice rounded edge on top layer edge corners your glass, contact with dam must be about 1/16" above dam. This is easily accomplished using 1/8" thick fibre around inside of dam. If your dam is higher than glass you will get needlepoints at top edge corners) If you are just...

I fuse up to 12 layers (1 1/2") fully dammed ... I ramp at 200F up to bubble sqeeze... never had thermal shock.

If your concern is thermal shock then my approach would be to really slow down your firing ramps below 1000F so the glass has time to heat and cool evenly regardless of the dams.

Most of the suggestions offered seem to be related to sticker glue removal (eg: paint thinner, lacquer etc.)... not the "ghosts" you describe. I have experienced the ghosts you refer to when I have removed a small pricing label after it has remained on a piece in my studio for some years. ...