Thanks Brian, I had forgottn that.
It does not work in winter, when the roads are icy.
I have a Dremel, but have to find diamond pads for it.
-lauri
Search found 270 matches
- Thu May 15, 2003 1:21 am
- Forum: Techniques and Tools
- Topic: Q: polishing curved surfaces?
- Replies: 3
- Views: 4820
- Wed May 14, 2003 2:11 am
- Forum: Techniques and Tools
- Topic: Q: polishing curved surfaces?
- Replies: 3
- Views: 4820
Q: polishing curved surfaces?
What kind of tools I need? In my kiln cast sculptures I have large surfaces that are slightly curved - convex nac concave. What are the proper tools for grinding and polishing? Just now I have nothing but two grades of diamond pad, 1000 grit wet'n'dry paper and a piece of chamoise to use with alumin...
- Fri May 09, 2003 3:28 am
- Forum: Techniques and Tools
- Topic: New and boy do I ever need help! PLEASE!!!!
- Replies: 21
- Views: 20447
Polarisation question
I have tested flat pieces with polarized glasses.
Most of my work is 3D, however, and the
thickness variation seems to affect polarisation.
(Or have I annealed all my reliefs wrong?)
-lauri
Most of my work is 3D, however, and the
thickness variation seems to affect polarisation.
(Or have I annealed all my reliefs wrong?)
-lauri
- Mon Apr 28, 2003 1:32 pm
- Forum: Kiln Casting
- Topic: Modeling wax recommendation
- Replies: 12
- Views: 21499
Removing Wax
I have no proper steaming rig, so I melt the vax (Candle vax or paraffin + beeswax) with a hot air gun. The mold absorb some vax, so when the mold is "empty" I squirt spoonful of acetone in it and burn the residue out. DEFINITELY outdoors!! If the mold is fairly open it burns out clean. In...
- Thu Apr 24, 2003 1:26 pm
- Forum: Kiln Casting
- Topic: Casting multiples from the same mold?
- Replies: 11
- Views: 16808
Multiple casting of a ceramic mold
I have worked with ceramic molds, both for slumping and casting. I have used white low-fire clay with 25 percent of grogg. It needs kilnwash regularly, but have lasted over 20 castings w/o significant wearing. I have on web only one photo. It is a slumped float glass piece. http://www.netti.fi/~laur...
- Wed Apr 23, 2003 1:23 pm
- Forum: Kiln Casting
- Topic: Raku clay slip vs plaster/silica
- Replies: 25
- Views: 44097
Thanks Charlie for the info on mixing. I didn't know you could let the wet components sit for that long without it going off. The calcining temperature is the point they heat crushed gypsum rock to make the plaster in the first place. That's the point that all of the bound water is driven off and y...
- Fri Apr 18, 2003 6:26 am
- Forum: Techniques and Tools
- Topic: slumping molds
- Replies: 3
- Views: 5406
As a sculptor I make all my molds myself. The rest of the work is but clear glass :D Raku clay is sure good, it is designed to stand thermal shock. I have used low fire clay with 25 per cent of 0.2 mm chamotte (=grogg). It takes several firings. I kilnwash it when dry but before the first firing. An...
- Fri Apr 18, 2003 6:16 am
- Forum: Techniques and Tools
- Topic: Pestle and mortar for crushing glass
- Replies: 15
- Views: 22319
Stainless inpurity.
I used to by my frit. Now I found a glass factory that produces crucible melt casts. I get their pilt (scrap class) very cheap. The pieces are 1-2 cm thick. Heating and throwing to water gives me pieces with small internal cracks. These are visible in a frit cast piece as spiderweb like structure of...
- Thu Mar 13, 2003 2:47 am
- Forum: Techniques and Tools
- Topic: Separators - a comprehensive thread
- Replies: 39
- Views: 55276
To add confusion, when I make a mold for frit casting, the piece is first covered with a splash layer. If that layer is pure plaster, it cracks. Now I am testing with a 50/50 mixture of kilnwash and plaster. The first experiment worked fine. As Hugo mentioned, when kaolin is heated over 760 C it sta...
- Wed Mar 12, 2003 4:33 am
- Forum: Techniques and Tools
- Topic: Question about fusing on/in bisque
- Replies: 5
- Views: 12394
I do almost all my work in frit casting in bisquit mold. MOst pieces are shallow reliefs, essentially flat. As Brad said some 800-840 C is a proper temperature, but ramp up slowly at two stages 570-600 C, the quarz inversion point at 573 C is quite a stress for a large flat mold. 650-700 C spend at ...