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Hi, I was making a mosaic-like fused project yesterday. Basically, I put on a 12.25 inch white BU 113 a layer of broken pieces from a previous melt (average: 1/4 inch thick); the pieces were separated by 1/16 to 1/8 inch so that I could see the white base between them. The melt was made using BU cle...

No extension cord, only a ground fault circuit interrupter.

I have added insulation on the top (approx R20), and so far so good today: the heating rate is right on target (typically, it takes at least approx 25% longer to complete a firing).

Lucie

This piece is absolutely gorgeous Cynthia! I love it!

Thanks for the tips.

Lucie

I am really surprised that it might be 'normal' for a kiln to loose so much heat that it can barely reach 1575F (and at a turtle pace at that!). Good thing that I manage to get decent melts at 1550F!

Lucie

Copper wouldn't be a good choice. Melting temp is 1084C/1983F, but it won't necessarily hold up well at the temperatures you want to fire. Brad, I you do a melt at 1500F, would copper wire behave better than if heated at 1700F or you still would not recommend using it because it would sag? Lucie

Hi, I have a Paragon Fusion 7 kiln (bought in January). It seems to loose a lot of heat at the interface between the lid and the top of the firebricks as well as through the lid. Just to give you an idea, the real heating rate is 450 dph when I set it to 600 dph. AFAP turns out to be approx 575 dph....

Thanks Rosanna! That second firing did the trick.

Lucie

I fired it at 1300F for 30 min. When I opened the kiln this morning, the mold was still fairly soft (definitely not as hard as ceramic) and I would even say almost brittle. The Hotline rigidizer that I used was purchased in February and always kept at room temperature, so it should still be good. Th...

Hi, I made a mold with ceramic fiber, using Hotline mold hardener. Searching through this site and others, I figured out that I first needed to fully dry the mold (heating at approx 175F for a few hours then air-dry). While the next step seems obvious for this rigidizer (firing at 1300F), I have not...

Hi, I just got a Dewalt D24000 wet tile saw. There is no information in the instruction manual on how much the blade should be tightened. I looked up the MK100 instruction manual, and it only said not to overtighten it otherwise it would be very difficult to remove it next time. How much tightening ...

Hi,

This maybe the thick rubbery material that you are referring to:
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Envirotile-2 ... b7eE9jl6qg

May be a more costly alternative depending on the size of the surface to be covered.

Lucie

Steve,

Which SS mesh do you use? I could not find any here, only galvanized metal. So I ordered SS perforated sheets. They cost approx $30 a square foot, so I cannot imagine using a new one each time ( ).

Lucie

Steve, I had used this SS screen twice before. I first fired it at 1400F by itself to ensure that it would flake as much as possible. The shelf was covered in black flakes. I then used the screen for my first mesh melt (to 1650F): it did not flake as much and there were certainly no flakes embedded ...

Hi, I have two questions wrt the mesh melt that I did last night. I used a SS mesh (304) with 1/2 holes. 1- black specks I had read on this board that SS 304 flakes but that these flakes can be brushed off the surface. Some of the black flakes are embedded in either the top of bottom surface (see ci...

Hi, I also achieved a slump at 1200F. But not knowing exactly what to expect for in terms of definition of the bottom vs. the sides, I continued on to 1220F with a 5 min soak. There were a few wrinkles, but not nearly as bad as with my first slumping schedule so I will definitely slump at 1180F next...

Hi, I have been checking the boards for a while now, and I learned an awful lot from you guys. But I could really use your help troubleshooting my slumping schedule. I recently purchased the BE medium classic mold (#8723). This mold has a flat bottom and somewhat steepish sides. I did not think that...