WarmGlass.com

Use copper with NO adhesive.

And therein lies the danger of parrot wisdom . . .

On the order of the chad idea, you could try the opposite, and make the hearts thicker in the center so the glass sits on them, and drapes around them, or the opposite and make the hearts thicker at the corners so the center slumps first.

Great idea! If you like heart shaped bubbles . . .

Apart from that, how was the play Mr. Lincoln?

I have found the simplest way to use these circle cutters is to draw a pencil line on a piece of paper. Place the CC in the center of the line and gently "score" the paper. Measure carefully between the score lines and adjust until perfect . . .

Joseph Tracy wrote:Thanks for the feedback, everyone. Hairspray sounds promising. Wonder who thought of that?

Marcel, the fey fuser . . .

That would be John Lewis. But, you know, I don't think too many casual fusers have a bottom draining hot glass furnace in their home studios . . .

One step, dam it.

Not. I never have and had a lot of those molds.

Yes to both.

Or you could use kiln wash and not worry about all this stuff.

Do a solid two layer base first, then add design elements.
Keep design elements 3/4" from edges.
Over-anneal both fusing and slumping.

You are in absolutely no danger of ruining your kiln. If you fire silver foil directly on the shelf it can leave a stain that can be transmitted to other glasses fired on that shelf. If you fire it on a piece of glass, covered with other glass, or not, no problem.

Hmmm . . . sorta like "warm glass".

. . . You can also use beads around the outside of the piece to allow bubbles to escape. The idea, which I learned from Brock Craig, is more advanced, but it will totally eliminate trapped air bubbles. It's covered on page 96 of my book, Contemporary Fused Glass . . . Thanks Brad. In the interests ...

Yeah probably, but your time would be better served making something that required thought and design. You're certainly not the first person to make somethig like this, but I've never seen a good one.

No, but SS is probably better. We used to travel with a dozen metal woks for teaching. I can't remember what they were but not SS. Basically, if it can take the heat it'll work. I slump at 1150.

Instead of buying an expensive "sink mold" just look for a big wok. Or go to a metal spinner and see what they have to offer in stock. Much cheaper, just as good . . .

Is there a three legged pronghorn antelope to the left of the tree?

Those are good.