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does anyone have experience making murini in a kiln,,,,,,,,,,also, lets say we are talking about the EVENHEAT bathtub kiln, and the mold that is ready for casting is 4" wide by 8" tall, how much space between each mold would there need to be, to make sure they all turned out,,,,as always,...

Of course you could always just cut an 18 1/8 inch circle out of the middle of a piece of one inch fiber board and line it with ceramic fiber. Put a fire brick or two in it to weigh it down so it doesn't move. Or, if you want a certain texture to the bottom and rim you could make a one plus inch thi...

If you can give up a week and want to learn from a master you should look into this class at the Pittspurgh Glass Center with Frantisek Janak of the Czech Republic. MONDAY JUNE 23 - SATURDAY JUNE 28 ONE WEEK INTENSIVE Cold Cuts coldworking This class will explore basic cold working techniques such a...

Sheesh, is our conference room bugged? This has already been proposed to Warren.... our architectural show is up during his class, Ted is his TA, we could/would do this... but it's up to the students.... are you one??? Who else is taking Warren's Pilchuck class? Carol? Yeah, I'm one of the students...

Lani, Great work. Interesting project. It's always fun to see the different ways people interpret a theme. I would love to have the chance to work with a metal fabricator like that. You know, I think Bullseye should take this opportunity to sponsor a field trip for Warren Langley's upcoming architec...

I have tested flat pieces with polarized glasses. Most of my work is 3D, however, and the thickness variation seems to affect polarisation. (Or have I annealed all my reliefs wrong?) -lauri Complicated changes in depth, especially if there are sharp corners -- like square voids or holes that pass a...

I think it is a compatibility problem. The crack runs down between the two pieces of color then heads for the nearest edge. Any differences between the color and the clear are doubled in a narrow slot like that. If it broke in the same place the second time it must be compatibility. Annealing cracks...

If you don't have a scale, lay out your cut pieces in a square about 11"x 11", and two pieces of standard 3mm thick. It will translate to a roughly 12" diameter disc. Some glass will be left in the pot. I don't pour directly onto a shelf. I've had the kiln wash fail and had to trash t...

There are a couple of photos in Keith Cummings' book showing glass poured from flower pots. One of a standard pour and one of a tilted shelf. He says little more about it than that it has lots of potential for exploration. A question for Jim: Might the pot with the larger hole have been a little clo...

Use more clear. Stay away from striking colors like red, yellow and orange.

I'm afraid you may find that the stainless has deteriorated and spalled off pieces of black and green junk into your glass. Most stainless can't really take these temperatures. Inconel can, but I don't know of any bowls made of inconel. It is too expensive, and too heat resistant to be practical for...

What I do is crash the kiln down to about 1350-1400 when the pot drip is complete. This gets the surface to glaze over enough that the bubbles either collapse or burst. Then I run the kiln back up to 1500 or so, wait for the surface of the glass to smooth out, then proceed to annealing. I think this...

Thinking out loud here. (Even though you can't hear me.) I don't actually know the physics involved but I think the point of putting silica in the mix is that it forms some kind of bond at higher temperatures. So you try to offset the increasing weakness of the plaster with increasing strength of si...

Very nice Steve. It's a good idea to add the rim. Takes it beyond a piece based solely on technique.

To answer the original question, it's tight, but you can do a pot drip in a 9 inch deep kiln. Look for cactus or bonsai pots. They are shorter and fatter.

If you still have the alginate original, I would make another alginate positive from it, then make a plaster/silica negative from that. Cast your glass on the plaster/silica. You could also use silicone or polyurethane rubber for the positive instead of alginate. It is hard to take a plaster cast fr...

(snip) 5) If possible without damaging the mold, gently remove as much of the wax as you can by hand - to reduce the amount of wax you have to steam out. For example, if you are modeling a piece with few details and relatively few undercuts, you may be able to remove the wax without steaming at all...

Just curious why you soak at 800-900 to drive off the bound water? The calcining temperature for gypsum plaster is about 325 f. Above that all the water is gone. Brad's book mentions 325 f as a holding point and Fenton and Kerwin mention the same temperature in their book. Nowhere can I find a reas...

I think it's all mostly up to you. In general, the smaller the hole and the higher the glass falls before it hits the mold, the more color mixing you're going to have. Smaller holes lead to thinner lines of color. More height leads to more looping of the glass as it pools = more lines of color. If y...

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I have Orton vents on my kilns and I think they help with evenivity. I was worried about the potential problem of cold air being pulled in and directed at the glass, as Bob has talked about, so I installed the inlet vents in the walls of my kilns. The air is pulled in horizontally about an inch belo...