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Lisa, I can't really tell from your photo, does the crack start at the interface of the black and clear, or in the black? Brock Brock It was hard to tell, it looked in both incidences of cracking that the cracks started at the interface of the opaque pink and the clear then at the interface of the ...

Lisa I think that you might have the understanding to figure out what happened. Look closely at where the cracks start and stop and where they go. This should give you a better clue as to why they started. The photo is helpful but maybe not as informative as a close visual examination. The only tro...

...I think that Lisa's problem is an incompatibility one. Cheers, Bob If it was incompatibility due to a COE shift from multiple firings, wouldn't you expect to see the cracks surround the incompatible color in more than one location and surround the color rather than shoot out in a single radiatin...

I might look at several areas that could be causing the problem. #1 was all the glass from the same stock sheets or were they mixed and thus have some subtle variation in compatibility. This is probably not the problem. #2 shift in COE from repeated firings. Probably not the problem. #3 sometimes k...

Now :roll: ..I'm perplxed. Your initial firing schedule that you first mentined on this thread is different than the one you just gave with your response to me. Did you fire more than once? Initial firing then again for matte firing?..after sandblasting? Three firings in all. One to fire the slab, ...

Lisa, I know you said your Denver holds the heat really well, but that is usually true for fiber kilns in the last 200 to 300 degrees. I would be more concerned with the temperature drop after your last hold at 700°. Controlling the temp drop to 450° at 100 dph would reduce any potential for ther...

doctac and Tami, thanks for the compliment! The slabs that I start out with are about 10x12x1.5" after firing. I just dam that area in my kiln and load it up with about 120 strips of glass per slab. the gradation comes with how the slab is set up. The tutorial at http://www.ebsqart.com/artMagaz...

Lisa, I think Bob Leatherbarrow used to do anneal soaks at both temps and has stopped doing that since having conversations at Bullseye (if I remember correctly). Ask him about it. Bob??? My heartfelt condeolences. I hate it when I can't figure out what is going wrong. Unfortunately I have no clues...

Is the texture of fiberboard the same as a kiln shelf. I want to make a drop ring plate for an award and have never used fiberboard so I don't know what to expect as far as texture is concerned. Thanks Ann The answer is no, there is much more texture on fiberboard. One fix is to kilnwash the board,...

Nice piece Lisa, and sorry glass deities are demanding some kind of penance from you. Your schedule looks fine, and you can't over anneal, so that's not an issue. Like Brock, I'm puzzled that the first cracks healed at such a low temp. Not that I think this is related to the crack, but are you conf...

How bout this, since my pattern bars typically have both transparent and opaque, maybe a possible solution is to anneal with this in mind. The annealing point for opaque is 935 and for transparent is 990, so maybe a slow descent and hold at 990, 960 and 935 would solve the problem? I am going to sti...

It is black and clear, no white in the piece. I am so stumped by this piece and am reluctant to fire the rest oof the 1/2" thick pieces that are ready to go back in for their final firing. I am also questioning my all opaque pieces.....do they have internal fissures that aren't visible.......oh...

Now I am totally perplexed! Here are pics of the piece that had the tiny fissures near the pink glass. I put it in last night for a matte finish on my new kiln shelf. Schedule was 150dph to 1170 hold 20 min 9999 to 960 hold 2 hrs 30 min 50dph to 700 no hold The cracks in the clear around the pink ar...

I have had the old thinfire pull up on the corners of pieces even with the corners of the paper weighted down. It can only be gotten off by sandblasting in my experience.

the new stuff is great, no shrinking or pulling up on the corners.

Lisa

Lisa: I explain all of this on my web site. http://www.gregorieglass.com Greg Certified Industrial Hygienist Hey greg- I guess I forgot the thread about nuissance dust. My respirator has P-100 cartridges, so I suppose i'm ok........but I guess we will really know in about 15 years. :shock: Lisa

I always wear a mask when I am tilesawing, vacuuming up thinfire residue, rinsing pieces off that have thinfire stuck to them, sandblasting, mixing kilnwash.......but, then I take the mask off and I always wonder if there are particles floating around in the air that I can't see that are worming the...

I use fine tip erasable markers. To date, they have always burned off cleanly. I never clean them off.

For tile sawing, I use a silver paint pen. Then I sandblast off any leftover marks.

This reminds me of the problem I had earlier this year that we discussed on this thread: http://www.warmglass.com/cgi-bin/wgarchive3.pl?read=79181 The consensus was that is was an incompatibility related to the pinks and cranberries. Steve Well, that would make sense, because the fissures are in th...

Well, I am actually not fusing on it. What I am planning on doing is using it to get a fused piece flat that my warped fiber shelf distorted a bit. So I am just taking a 1/2" 14x14 piece up to 1170 for 20 minutes. Do you think that would be ok on the unfired shelf? Lisa Yes, the glass won't be...

Well, I am actually not fusing on it. What I am planning on doing is using it to get a fused piece flat that my warped fiber shelf distorted a bit. So I am just taking a 1/2" 14x14 piece up to 1170 for 20 minutes. Do you think that would be ok on the unfired shelf?

Lisa