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Never fused it, only done tests, but it seems to me you are already half way there to an answer. Start watching it at 800, and you will find the magic number. What works in my kiln may not work in yours, anyway.

My bet is that it is the champagne. If you don't look closely you can mistake it for white. It usually darkens on firing.

Just a suggestion, if you decide to use silicone to glue your mirrors, be sure to get a "neutral cure" silicone as the regular stuff will eat the silvering if it comes in contact with it. Not right away, weeks or months later.

Never done this, but I think you may find that the color change is only on the top surface. I know that a little bit of silver will warm it up some.

I think the shift could be a real issue. No-one tests their glass for more than 3 firings. There probably isn't a known definitive answer for this.

The pottery supplier near me thinks I'm a little off my gourd. I come in with my level and paper and go over every shelf he has. If I can get the paper under the level I pass on that shelf. Remember to check across more than one direction. Fiber paper will get you by in the meantime, that's what I h...

again, why do people feel that they need a connection to the artist? art is personal to the person looking at it, and what it means to them. why should a buyer care what the artist felt when designing/making a piece? are they expected to feel the same emotions that the artist did? if art didn't say ...

Yeah, it's sort of a kind of dirt anyway. I might worry about the dye. Maybe you don't want it on your vegetable garden. It could also cause some change in the pH level of your soil if there was enough of it (a lot of plants really don't like things like plaster). I don't actually know this, it may ...

Perhaps there's something else going on here though. You shouldn't be getting needled edges at only 1250. They should still be almost as square as fresh cut glass. The description sounds as though the glass got much hotter than that. This was opalescent glass, so it may not be glass designed for fus...

[quote="vidrio"]What's the difference between fiber blanket stuff and fiber board? Is it heartier, or just cozier? Vidrio There are actually 3 products: blanket, paper and board. Board is rigid usually 1/2" or thicker, paper is pliable and usually thinner, blanket is fibrous, not as d...

So you could buy a "bead blaster" relatively inexpensively and then use aluminum oxide or silicon carbide in it? Sounds like the way to go for small items.

Well quite a while ago, I read on this board that Sharpie markers burnt off completely. Of course I had been religiously cleaning them off. Hey, I thought I could really use that black mark to get things centered on the form. Well, I agree with Brad - if you want them to burn off, they will stay, an...

I guess you could get away with the ceramic wash, but.. It is certainly coarser and doesn't give as nice a finish, but the worst part is it can stick to the glass or haze the back of your glass.

We buy cerium oxide from a company that sells glazing supplies. In Ontario try C.R. Laurence, they have outlets everywhere and probably carry it.

Well I have total sympathy. I can't see it either. I have a regular UV light, and one called a "mineral light" which I presume is the one that you can buy from the lapidary suppliers and is supposed to be the right kind. It has a purple filter over it. Do I have to remove some part of this...

I presume a bead blaster is blasting with glass bead. I don't know about these, but glass bead isn't really an appropriate abrasive. There is inexpensive sandblasting equipment out there. Sears sells some, or try Princess Auto in Langley. You only need a really minimum setup. The little airbrush bla...

I don't think this will be a successful project. The back of anything fired on a shelf won't be clear enough for a picture. You would have to grind and polish the bottom. Kind of a lot of work.

Yes, but her System 96 pieces devitrified as well (I think). Could the burning leaf cause such problems?

The popping and cracking sounds are coming from your elements. Crash cooling is pretty hard on your kiln. I used to do this, mostly because I was in a hurry to get the kiln down to the annealing range so I could go to bed. Open up the lid as far as I could and hold as long as I could stand the heat....

Get a pyrometer for it. You just stick the probe through a peephole. You need this for your annealing cycle. You can fire by cones, they are actually quite useful. Start with 018 for slumping, 016 for tack fusing, 014 for fusing. Then you can adjust for your specific kiln. Probably the hardest part ...